Thursday 15 September 2011

Upgrading a Mongoose Disturbed 21spd MTB bike.?

Hello, I'm trying to upgrade my Mongoose Disturbed MTB bike I purchased cheap for $178 at Canadian Tire.



I would like only serious, helpful suggestions for upgrading the components on this bike on a budget. I know that this is a %26quot;dept store Mongoose%26quot; and Mongoose sell really good %26quot;real%26quot; MTB bikes. The frame on it is quite heavy, but the welds look well done and strong. My bro races competitvely XC, on his expensive Kona custom, so I can ask his advise too. But he lives in another city from me.



It has pretty much the lowest components possible on it(ie taiwan parts.)



Zoom Dirtech XC front suspension(generic A28 model) It's not on their website though.

http://www.hlcorp.com.cn/hlqc/pro.asp?LarCode=HLQC%26amp;MidCode=ZOOM



Lu Jin rear shock LJ 400ax(This has an usual Eye to Eye length 6.25, which makes an upgrade almost impossible)

http://www.diytrade.com/china/4/products/571809/SHOCK_ABSORBER_LJ-400AX.html



Promax front mechanical disc DSK400 brakes. ASPE(taiwan) rear linear v-brake/levers.

http://www.promax.com.tw/english/disc_brakes.htm

http://www.apse.com.tw/E/body.php?web=11%26amp;SNo=02%26amp;FNo=101





No-name front derailleur and DNP Epoch 7 rear derailleur/13-28t slick system freewheel. I could not find any info on DNP online. Velo Shift VS-030 grip shifts. Could not find any info on these either.



Other parts are no-name Cane Creek headset, mongoose bars, stem, cranks, seatpost etc,



I have already rode it a couple times, and adjusted the shifting to where it's %26quot;as good as I could get it%26quot;, and it rides pretty good. No bobbing with this rear shock design that I could tell. I'm pretty light though 130lbs. Front fork is adequate, ran straight over curb and it didn't bottom out. I adjusted the Disc brake, so it doesn't rub, and it can lock the front pretty easy.



I'll be using it mostly on road and maybe light XC trail. Hardly any stunting/jumping.



I have already ordered online a new 2007 RockShox Dart 2 front shock cheap for $80, which should help that Zoom. I'll get a local LBS to install/tune up and check my bike out.



I wanted to know what/if any drivetrain/shifters I can replace the DNP Epoch 7 system with? Freewheels are getting rarer, but still cheap to buy. Also, I wanted some better/lighter rims%26amp;tires. If I replace the rims, would I also need to change my rear cogs/drivetrain?



It has no quick release skewers at all, so if need be I'd pay to get disc compatible hubs%26amp;QR with the new rims. I will also want better %26quot;cheap%26quot; pedals, maybe Truativ Crankset/Bottom Bracket, better front disc brake, rear v-brake etc.



I will be going to the LBS and get their advise too before I decide what to do/buy. I want to plan my %26quot;rebuild%26quot; over the winter on the cheap. Finding the right parts online would help keep costs down.(pricepoint, nashbar, jensonusa, harris cyclery) But, if just getting the LBS to upgrade slowly or all at once would be the best option. I can take pics of the bike, if it will help.



Thanks to all who reply with their advice and help.




Upgrading a Mongoose Disturbed 21spd MTB bike.?
Um, rather than make suggestions on upgrades, might I outline some problems that you might run into as you go along?



1) Going to quick release on the rear wheel will not be possible since the dropouts are too thin. Grinding down the axles to fit or adding a spacer behind the locknuts is not a good option. If you change the wheels make absolutely sure you get a Shimano compatible 7 speed freehub and cassette to replace the freewheel.



2) You might need to get a rear derailleur with a hanger attached. If you really want to do this, go to Shimano Alivio or Deore... there are hangers available but they are not common. You'll also need Shimano shifters and freewheel for proper operation. DNC is a very low end Chinese company that uses worn out Shimano tooling. Right now, I think, they are using Shimano Eagle, Lark, and Crane tooling from the 70s.



3) I am pretty sure (but not positive) that your bike has a 1%26quot; steerer and the Dart 2 is 1-1/8%26quot;. Not compatible. The Zoom Dirtech is an %26quot;original equipment manufacturers%26quot; offering and not available to the general public. These are used on very cheap bikes,especially those with head tubes under 120mm long. By the way... no Rock Shox product will be compatible with a head tube under 120mm.



4) Placing a more aggressive rear shock in will destroy the plastic pivot bushings, so if you choose to do so, pull a bushing out before they get worn and get bronze replacements at a shop that carries bearings.



I will make only one suggestion. Before you start on this upgrade %26quot;on the cheap%26quot; do some quick searches for parts prices. It is not uncommon for you to be able to get a new, better bike for the cost of such a comprehensive upgrade. If you are digging the idea of this, go for it but be well advised that you won't be saving any money.



EDIT: This is an OEM site http://www.biketaiwan.com/2008TBS/tbs/tb鈥?/a> so you won't be able to see pricing but you can do a search for the raft of garbage parts available- as well as good stuff.

Is the sketch for my project correct?

for our investigatory project, we are making something which we call %26quot;removable wheels.%26quot; we will add a frame (made of metal) where you can put the legs of tables..on top of the wheels. clamps will be used on four sides to hold the legs of the tables in place. that way, the table would move. it's like a portable push cart. the table becomes the push cart itself. you just add the wheels. (i know, not exactly a very good project, but we don't have time to change anymore) but there's one more thing. we're told to put in a %26quot;shock absorber%26quot;. this shock absorber uses the principles of hydraulics and this is where im having a problem. http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab13/kim523/ip2.jpg that's a temporary sketch i made in paint. the lines around the thing is actually a spring, in case you're wondering. the spring is welded to the metal at the bottom part, not the top part. is that correct? or is there something missing? or do you have any comments about it? it would really help me so much. if you didn't understand what i just said... please ask. i'd gladly re-explain it :)
Is the sketch for my project correct?
Edit

I cut and pasted your reference with the following result -

%26quot;We did not find results for: http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab13/鈥?/a> Try the suggestions below or type a new query above.%26quot; But

when I first posted this answer the proper self-directing link did appear. So - -



I see no %26quot;hydraulics%26quot; here. A set of coil springs will act as suitable shock absorbers for the table all by themselves. (Hydraulic %26quot;shock absorbers%26quot; on cars are really there to mostly dampen out the cyclic bounce of the springs in the suspension system. That will be unnecessary here unless you intend to put your roller table on the road.)

As is it currently described, unless the swivel pin has a retainer on top (like a locking ring) to keep it in the mounting hole, the wheel will fall out if the entire assembly is lifted. If there is a retainer , there is no need to tack weld the coil spring. If there is not a retainer, you can tack weld both ends of the spring so that it will also act as a retainer, but that will create a dis-assembly problem later. Also if you tack both ends, the wheels will be very limited in the amount of swivel.

(Unless the wheels are already ball bearing swivel casters.) I would prefer a removable retainer to snap onto a groove near the top of the pivot pin and do not weld the spring at all.



If the project is only conceptual, it looks OK as I noted above. If it is design- build, you will have to be careful with the spring design so that they are not too stiff or too weak. You will have to estimate the anticipated weight of the table and also the contents. The springs will need to be ground flat on top and bottom. The shaft mounting block will need to be counter bored or the table legs hollow to allow for unimpeeded upward movement of the shaft when the spring compresses. The bottom of the block will need a short round protrusion ( a boss) slightly less than the inside diameter of the spring to act as a lateral retainer for the spring.
Is the sketch for my project correct?
You have a problem there. A hydraulic shock absorber is made up of a piston within a cylinder which forces fluid through a small hole, not something the amateur engineer can easily rustle up. I suggest a cut down bicycle pump as the best bet. The fluid needs to be forced out to and returned from a reservoir, but there is nothing against one reservoir feeding 4 shock absorbers. Good luck.

Please, I need mechanic help with my 98 VW Passat?

So we bought a 98 Passat a few weeks ago (march 14th is the actual purchase date) When my husband brought it home from the dealership (we bought it out cash) he didnt notice anything wrong with the car. Not until he took the car to get an oil change is that he noticed that the car was leaking coolant. So we took it to VW to get an Diagnosis on what was wrong with the car. So they told us that it had a hoe that was leaking coolant. So to repair that hose it would be around $220 for the part and the labor.

Since the evaluated the whole car, on thei evaluation sheet they marked that the 1. Shock absorbers/suspension/struts, 2. Steering gear box/linkage and boots/ball joints/dust covers, 3. engine oil/fluid leak, 4. drive shaft boots/constant velocity boots/u joints/transmission linkage (if equipped) where all in the red meaning they all need immediate attention. This was all under the %26quot;under vehicle%26quot; of the inspection report they did on the car.



Ok then on the comments/estimates they added:



Upper links $1027.13

Camshaft Adj Leaking $457

R/Outer CV Boot Torn $250

Reccomend T-Belt $590



I am a lil skeptical and I find it hard to believe that a car with only 104k miles would need all of this. It is a 5-speed manual so I dont know if that makes a difference at all. Part of me just wants to say I told you so and nag him on making the quick purchase and not getting a civic or an accord (i have a lot of faith in honda) but what ever its too late now. I also want to make sure that the dealership servicing is not trying to rip us off. My husband found some receipts in the glove compartment and found that a new timing belt had been put in in the summer of 06' so we could get that off the list. But that still leaves us with a total of $1734.13 in reoairs which is almost half of what we bought the car for grrrrrr.....



My husband has a mechanic friend who can do the work for him but my husband says he would rather have vw do the work that way he has warranty if anything were to happen with those specific parts.



So what I am wondering is is all this stuff necessary or are they just trying to scam us. I would hate to think so, but you never know.
Please, I need mechanic help with my 98 VW Passat?
My first question is what sort of inspection or warranty did you get from the place that you purchased the car from. Was it a VW dealership? Was a smog and safety inspection performed on the vehicle? Is the dealership where the hose was replaced the same place where the vehicle was purchased? Inspections should always be performed before a car is purchased, but as you say, that's water under the bridge. Was the car sold as is where is? Perhaps contacting the department of consumer affairs or the Better Business Bureau might help... all they can say is no...



I have not seen the car, so I cannot verify that the vehicle needs all of this, what I can tell you is that given the milage on the vehicle it is possible that some of this work needs to be done.



I would have the vehicle inspected by another VW specialist; it does not have to be a VW dealership, but someone who works on VW's nearly all the time. If he/she is able to verify some or all of these items need service, you should be able to get this done for less money than the dealership charges.



The CV boot can be replaced by a completely rebuilt or exchange axle shaft for the same price or less, An aftermarket axle shaft can be purchased for $125 or less in most cases, plus anywhere from .5 hr to 1.0 at the most for labour to replace it. This will give you two new cv boots and rebuilt or new CV joints, rather than one boot (also there is the possiblity you might need a joint when they remove the old boot and inspect the joint). As far as the upper links on the suspension go, yeah, that's possible depending upon the type of driving and where its been driven given the miles on the vehicle. However, its something that a good mechanic or front end shop can do for you for less money. They'll also align the 4 wheels for you to reduce tyre wear after replacing the links.



I'm not no sure about the camshaft adjuster, but again, I'm not there to inspect the vehicle and say.



IF it's any comfort, at least your Passat is a very safe car and a good car to be in (heaven forbid) an accident, as your chances of survival without serious injury are excellent.



Anyway, I hope this helps, a car nut.
Please, I need mechanic help with my 98 VW Passat?
BUY A CAR WITH NO ELECTIC ANYTHING..ALL MANUAL..

simple is cheap

4 cylinder, manual transmission, single over head cam..

is the best vechile for cheap and reliable transportation

I OWN a 1998 vw jetta..love the car..hate the eletric problems..

its ok do my best to fix them i was a electronic tech in the navy

Why does my car shake when going above 70 mph.?

My car is a 94 Nissan Quest. I recently had new shock absorbers (they were dead) installed for the front and the rear. I also put two new tires for the front and also did wheel alignment. I also did the 6,000 mile recommended engine maintenace and i also changed the tranny fluid. My mechanic suggested that i get new engine mounts. Could that be the problem? When i get to 70 mph my car shakes from the front all the way towards the rear. The shaking also seems to go in cylces. Like 2 seconds it shakes and then it lessens and then it starts shaking again.
Why does my car shake when going above 70 mph.?
Could be a number of things.

First thing to do is figure out whether it鈥檚 being caused by the driveline or by the suspension. Since you already suspect the motor mounts (yes it could be them), drive the car up to 70mph and put it in neutral. Does the vibration go away? If it does, then the problem is likely related to the driveline. It could be CV joints, motor mounts, etc. If the vibration doesn鈥檛 go away, it is likely in the suspension. It could be a broken spring, tire pressure, grabbing/wrapped brake rotor, wheel bearing, etc.
Why does my car shake when going above 70 mph.?
Loose wheel bearings. My pontiac used to do that until I had the bearings replaced on the front. The steering wheel would shake violently when I hit about 70 mph.
or you need your wheels balanced
Had your front tires, or all of them, balanced lately? If not, it might help. Somebody mentioned wheel bearings. If you have never had them re-greased, they might be dry. Or loose!
Engine mounts or bad axle joints.



Put it on a flat parking lot, drive slowly with your window down so you can hear and turn the steering wheel full Left and then back to full Right. If you hear a clicking noise then the axles are bad, if not, probably the mounts.
I did not hear anything about speed balancing the tire. I mean all four.
Need to have all 4 tires balanced. proper inflation checked.
If you can drive into the shimmy it is wheel balance, and no a wheel balance has to be asked for, it costs extra--strange they didn't ask u when you bought the tires.

How much is the new Nissan GT-R (Skyline) gonna cost? It's spec sheet is UNBELIEVABLE!!?

鈥?VR-series twin-turbocharged 3.8-liter V6.

鈥?480 hp @ 6,800 rpm. 430 lb-ft torque @ 3,200鈥?,200 rpm.

鈥?Dual overhead camshafts with variable intake-valve timing.

鈥?Cast aluminum cylinder block with high-endurance/low-friction plasma-sprayed bores.

鈥?IHI twin turbochargers, one per cylinder bank.

鈥?Pressurized lubrication system with thermostatically controlled cooling.

Drivetrain

鈥?ATTESA ET-S All-Wheel Drive (AWD) with independent rear-mounted transaxle integrating transmission, differential and AWD transfer case.

鈥?Rigid, lightweight carbon-composite driveshaft between engine and transaxle.

鈥?Electronic traction control plus 1.5-way mechanically locking rear differential.

鈥?Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC-R) with three driver-selectable settings: Normal (for daily driving, controls brakes and engine output), R-Mode (for ultimate performance, utilizes AWD torque distribution for additional vehicle stability) and Off (driver does not want the help of the system).

鈥?Hill Start Assist prevents rollback when starting on an incline.

DisclaimerVDC-R cannot prevent accidents due to abrupt steering, carelessness, or dangerous driving techniques. Always drive safely.

Transmission

鈥?6-speed Dual Clutch Transmission with three driver-selectable modes: Normal (for maximum smoothness and efficiency), Snow (for gentler starting and shifting on slippery surfaces), and R mode (for maximum performance with fastest shifts).

鈥?Fully automatic shifting or full sequential manual control via gearshift or steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters.

鈥?Dual clutch design changes gears in less than 0.5 second (0.2 second in R mode).

鈥?Downshift Rev Matching (DRM).

鈥?Predictive pre-shift control (in R mode) based on throttle position, vehicle speed, braking and other information.

Wheels and Tires

鈥?20 x 9.5%26quot; (front) and 20 x 10.5%26quot; (rear) super-lightweight forged-aluminum wheels with Gunmetal Gray finish.

鈥?Exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Bridgestone庐 RE070A high-capacity run-flat summer tires, 255/40R20 front and 285/35R20 rear.

鈥?Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS).

鈥?Optional exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Dunlop庐 run-flat all-season tires, 255/40R20 front and 285/35R20 rear (includes Bright Silver wheels).

Brakes

鈥?Brembo庐 4-wheel disc brakes with 4-wheel Antilock Braking System (ABS), Brake Assist, Electronic Brakeforce Distribution and Preview Braking.

鈥?Two-piece floating-rotor 15-inch front and rear discs with diamond-pattern internal ventilation.

鈥?6-piston front/4-piston rear monoblock calipers.

Steering

鈥?Rack-and-pinion steering with vehicle-speed-sensitive power assist.

鈥?2.6 steering-wheel turns lock-to-lock.

Suspension

鈥?4-wheel independent suspension with Bilstein庐 DampTronic system with three driver-selectable modes: Normal/Sport (for automatic electronic control of damping), Comfort (for maximum ride comfort), and R mode (engages maximum damping rate for high-performance cornering).

鈥?Electronically controlled variable-rate shock absorbers. High-accuracy progressive-rate coil springs.

鈥?Front double-wishbone/rear multi-link configuration with aluminum members and rigid aluminum subframes.

鈥?Hollow front and rear stabilizer bars.

Body/Chassis

鈥?Exclusive Premium Midship platform with jig-welded hybrid unibody.

鈥?Aluminum hood, trunk and door skins. Die-cast aluminum door structures.

鈥?Carbon-reinforced front crossmember/radiator support.
How much is the new Nissan GT-R (Skyline) gonna cost? It's spec sheet is UNBELIEVABLE!!?
Not sure of it yet but iam sure it will deff grow on me,i said the same thing about the R33 when it came out and now have one.



http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/video.php?i鈥?/a>



http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/鈥?/a>

I think the price is right i was told around 70k

And yes the g35 is the Skyline also.

Sarah

Good luck on your R34 great cars.,trying to get the wife to like them as we have had the r32 and the r33 but she wants an evo next.
How much is the new Nissan GT-R (Skyline) gonna cost? It's spec sheet is UNBELIEVABLE!!?
The base model is going to start around $68k. It will go up as you go into the v-spec model.
Alot of freakin money. In one more year I will finally be able to own the 1999 skyline (my dreamcar) I am getting it from a collector for 110,000.00 He supped it up with twin NO2 tanks, a racing carbeurator, A flippin awesome sound system with dual bass canons. If you want the new one get it totally worth it.
The funny thing is it is already over here in the US, but nobody knows what it is. Its the Infinity G35 coupe, but In Japan it is sold as the a Nissan. Now the engine will be different than the G35. It goes 350z, G35 coupe, and then the 2009 Nissan.



The 2009 Nissan combines the both of the 350z and G35, and use the same platform.



Nissan is Infiniti



And by no means will it blow anyone away going 0-60mph. Because of the V6 and turbo lag, but that's about it. other than that its fast.
c2953lm, you're gravely uninformed. The rebadged Japanese Nissan Skyline aka G35 in the USA is a travesty to the Skyline name and heritage. Combining the G35 and 350z?? How about they all 3 have the same platform? The engine has nothing in common. The Z and G have the VQ, the GT-R has a completely redesigned VR engine. Also, turbo lag is almost non-existent, as it peaks torque at little over 1000 rpms and maintains a smooth power curve throughout the powerband. To put it in simple terms, it has more torque sooner than a naturally aspired Corvette.



I recommend that you read up some technical information, specs and especially driver reviews before you spew such uninformed opinion.
Fish Bone. c2953lm is right on this one, you shouldn't be ripping on people, when you question them for saying the right thing, but you think its wrong.(example- The car platform) You said the same thing yet you said he was wrong.



Any ways the specifications listed on the web site are as stated correctly the Japanese specs, not the US specs. And according to my local Nissan dealer the Japanese and American Versions are different(engine specs). But thats it. other than that Its still a sick car.





Nice to know someone else has a Porsche 911 twin turbo c2953lm.
The GTR is on the PM platform, not on the same platform as the Z and G35, rather an improved version of their FM



c2953lm, not trying to be rude, but where exactly have you seen that the U.S. version is not getting turbos and what our power specs will be? I try to keep up to date, and have not yet read that sad news anywhere.





that really sucks about the emissions, i had read that the 6speed manual was the only thing having problems passing emissions...my question now is, why has it been all over the west coast roads if it isn't emissions compliant? it seems odd that California would allow that thing to drive around their roads if it wasn't emissions legal



c2953lm, yeah i kinda thought about that after i asked that question...makes since why it wouldn't have to abide by our rules yet...thanks
im more of a porsche person but ive been in japan for a few years and iv drivin it its great every where but if i were to guess the price it would be abou 72K and upwards idrove the V-spec2 nur
High $60k.
  • loreal hair color
  • ittwit
  • I need some mechanical advice on my 98 VW Passat?

    So we bought a 98 Passat a few weeks ago (march 14th is the actual purchase date) When my husband brought it home from the dealership (we bought it out cash) he didnt notice anything wrong with the car. Not until he took the car to get an oil change is that he noticed that the car was leaking coolant. So we took it to VW to get an Diagnosis on what was wrong with the car. So they told us that it had a hoe that was leaking coolant. So to repair that hose it would be around $220 for the part and the labor.

    Since the evaluated the whole car, on thei evaluation sheet they marked that the 1. Shock absorbers/suspension/struts, 2. Steering gear box/linkage and boots/ball joints/dust covers, 3. engine oil/fluid leak, 4. drive shaft boots/constant velocity boots/u joints/transmission linkage (if equipped) where all in the red meaning they all need immediate attention. This was all under the %26quot;under vehicle%26quot; of the inspection report they did on the car.



    Ok then on the comments/estimates they added:



    Upper links $1027.13

    Camshaft Adj Leaking $457

    R/Outer CV Boot Torn $250

    Reccomend T-Belt $590



    I am a lil skeptical and I find it hard to believe that a car with only 104k miles would need all of this. It is a 5-speed manual so I dont know if that makes a difference at all. Part of me just wants to say I told you so and nag him on making the quick purchase and not getting a civic or an accord (i have a lot of faith in honda) but what ever its too late now. I also want to make sure that the dealership servicing is not trying to rip us off. My husband found some receipts in the glove compartment and found that a new timing belt had been put in in the summer of 06' so we could get that off the list. But that still leaves us with a total of $1734.13 in reoairs which is almost half of what we bought the car for grrrrrr.....



    My husband has a mechanic friend who can do the work for him but my husband says he would rather have vw do the work that way he has warranty if anything were to happen with those specific parts.



    So what I am wondering is is all this stuff necessary or are they just trying to scam us. I would hate to think so, but you never know.
    I need some mechanical advice on my 98 VW Passat?
    LOL...listen..mechanics are out to rip u off !..ALWAYS get to or 3 opinions ..like u would from a doctor..

    sounds to me this SHOP is riping u off..

    do a search online for your %26quot;State inspection checkoff list%26quot;..for YOUR STATE..

    and take it to another mechanic.

    once u find a cheap and honest mechanic..go to him for all your troubles..even if u have to drive a hour away..extra $20 in gas is better then paying extra 200-400 in repairs..right?
    I need some mechanical advice on my 98 VW Passat?
    Is this a TURBO engine???? You must use only genuine VW COOLANT in these cars. You have no way of controlling what the previous owner did or didn't do. Only Mobil One 0W_40 oil or ELF oil should ever be used in this car, either. The 100,000 mile maintenance can be prohibitive, I agree. The dealership should stand behind this car. Hopefully, they are a VW delaer. If not, you may have to threaten with litigation. Once you get over this hurdle, your car should last another 100,000 miles before it needs any major work. Have your engine de-sludged before you install the Mobil One or ELF oil. You will do your engine the biggest favor, and you will reap the rewards of better power and MPG's, plus a cleaner engine that has lowest internal friction. Interestingly enough, VW engines have piston squirters built into them. Each time the piston goes down, a little sprayer focuses oil at the wrist pin. In theory, this engine can last for almost ever if you use the proper VW spec 502/505 oil. (Mobil One or ELF). You did the right thing by buying this car. It is safer and actually cheaper in the long run than the Honda you were thinking about. If the timing belt goes on a Honda before it gets changed, you are looking at a thousnd dollar plus repair, as the valves will bend. The VW was engineered for Autobahn speeds. 140 MPH +. Heed my advice. You cannot go wrong. Also, read you manual and change your brake fluid every 2-3 years. There is a new synthetic brake fluid avilable for this guy that protects a little better. Either way, use only the German fluid, or you will have more expenses coming with the brake system. See??
    well since you say your husband wants to get it repaired by vw then thats his thing even though some places over the warranty if it dont work just have to ask the mechanic and if he does it himself it should be easy to do. and if not then tell him to let his friend do it if he has a diploma or a degree in mechanics
    let me start by saying ive been there i always have my used cars checked by my mechanic but im not trying to lecture you the dealer always cost much more than a regular garage i do know that vw parts are expensive but don't panic dealers are in a hard way right now and they need all the money they can get so they a more than likely nit picking you're car because they are hungry have you're husbands friend evaluate the car and if something is serious have him take care of it you can i hope trust him to lead you in the right direction

    Cycling for life and My story of life.?

    Hi All,



    During my childwood i puchased Hercules MTB i used this very roughly from 8th std to 12th std.I was totally fit and enjoyed my riding each day , this was the basic model without any gears but i used to ride for 20kms every day. (1993 to 1998). My cycle was my life at this time.



    Later in 2002 i entered the software profession i was fit healthy and muscular, but down the time this stamina got declining,



    My friends and readers(Other Software professionals) will know why it happened to me?



    Reason : Sloggin and working on computer for a long time. Life style totally changed i used my car and 2 wheeler for most of the transportation.





    I was really embarrassed and depressed reg my health and my situation, but I never found a way to overcome this, but I always used to repent on this.



    Then on one day i thought i will commute to office by using cycle.



    I took Hero Hawk (With out gears) for communting from office to home, i rode this for 1 month, but i used to put lot of efforts on cycling.



    Later i developed back pain because this cycle was not a perfect design for my body鈥檚 attributes(iam 100 Kilos and 5鈥?%26quot;) The seat of this bicycle is really pathetic



    I donated this bicycle(Hero Hawk)



    My health started declining onceagain daily i used to think weather i will survive or not for the another 1 year.



    I started doing Yoga and Brisk walking now iam fit and energetic now i love myself and have pride about myself .



    After 2 months i wanted to go for a bicycle once again but but this time i did a lots of research on bikes and came to know that i have to use a good bike(BICYCLE) where in which the efforts for pedalling should be very very less this and this are all my findings.



    Hero:



    1) Octane DTB1 (5500rs)

    2) Octane DTB2 (5500 rs)

    3) Octane Nv (5500rs)

    4) Octane 26t (7500 rs with speed brakes)

    all the above models have 21 gears.



    Hercules Models



    1) Hecules Turbodrive

    2) Hercules wow(18 gear ) - 5500 rs

    3) Hercules Wow -(21 gears with speed brake) - 7500rs

    4) Hercules dtb4 -(21 gears but a heavy vehicle)-5500rs

    5) Hercules DTB5-(21 gears aluminum bike ) - 6500 rs

    6) Hercules Fusion (6 gears) - 3500rs

    7) Hercules fusion whith shock absorbers(6 gears) - 4000rs.



    Trek Models



    1) Trek 3700 ( 17000 rs )

    2) Trek 4300(22000 rs +)



    Merrida



    1) model 1

    2) Model 2



    the prices of merrida is same as trek models.



    FireFox



    1) Basic Model with 6 gears starts from 6000 rs+



    For me i dont wanted to invest a large amount for bicycle, because if some theft happens i would repent a lot then i dont wanted to go for an international or imported brand because of maintainence issues.



    so i choosed 2 indian Brands



    1) Hero and 2) Hercules.



    With the review comments that what i have read in the internet directly i rejected hero brand.



    My inclination started growing with hercules. and i decided to go for any one of the below bikes



    1) Hercules Wow (18 Gear)

    2) Hercules dtb 5(21 gear)



    While commuting to office with my Petrol Vehicle i always scanned the roads for this higer end bicycles i found a couple of riders with Hercules Wow. They gave me the best feed back reg this Bikes.



    Then i made my mind to buy hercules WoW (18 Gear)- 5500RS.



    To make this decesion i have done mining on the different category of cycles.



    The feedback from various people who were using Hercules Wow is amazing. i will be purchasing this bicycle at the earliest and i will presume my cycling journey of my life once again to keep myself fit , energetic, active and to build stamina.





    I have done lots and lots of research on bicycles.



    Below are some of the links you can look in to (Because i have used this links for my initial research)





    http://groups.google.co.in/group/Bangalore-bikers

    http://www.bikeszone.com/

    http://www.bumsonthesaddle.com/mountainBikes



    If you still require any other info or want to make some decesion you can mail me back or call me up.



    This is my number 9916487474



    All the best for other who are venturing for getting new bicycles.



    Purchase Price (INR): 5500
    Cycling for life and My story of life.?
    worlds longest non-question



    wle.
    Cycling for life and My story of life.?
    Are you asking a question or trying to sell a bike?

    Who likes the new gtr coming to America?

    Specifications



    Engine

    鈥?VR-series twin-turbocharged 3.8-liter V6.

    鈥?480 hp @ 6,400 rpm. 430 lb-ft torque @ 3,200鈥?,200 rpm.

    鈥?Dual overhead camshafts with variable intake-valve timing.

    鈥?Cast aluminum cylinder block with high-endurance/low-friction plasma-sprayed bores.

    鈥?IHI twin turbochargers, one per cylinder bank.

    鈥?Pressurized lubrication system with thermostatically controlled cooling.

    Drivetrain

    鈥?ATTESA ET-S All-Wheel Drive (AWD) with independent rear-mounted transaxle integrating transmission, differential and AWD transfer case.

    鈥?Rigid, lightweight carbon-composite driveshaft between engine and transaxle.

    鈥?Electronic traction control plus 1.5-way mechanically locking rear differential.

    鈥?Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC-R) with three driver-selectable settings: Normal (for daily driving, controls brakes and engine output), R-Mode (for ultimate performance, utilizes AWD torque distribution for additional vehicle stability) and Off (driver does not want the help of the system).

    鈥?Hill Start Assist prevents rollback when starting on an incline.

    DisclaimerVDC-R cannot prevent accidents due to abrupt steering, carelessness, or dangerous driving techniques. Always drive safely.



    Transmission

    鈥?6-speed Dual Clutch Transmission with three driver-selectable modes: Normal (for maximum smoothness and efficiency), Snow (for gentler starting and shifting on slippery surfaces), and R mode (for maximum performance with fastest shifts).

    鈥?Fully automatic shifting or full sequential manual control via gearshift or steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters.

    鈥?Dual clutch design changes gears in less than 0.5 second (0.2 second in R mode).

    鈥?Downshift Rev Matching.

    鈥?Predictive pre-shift control (in R mode) based on throttle position, vehicle speed, braking and other information.

    Wheels and Tires

    鈥?20 x 9.5%26quot; (front) and 20 x 10.5%26quot; (rear) super-lightweight forged-aluminum wheels.

    鈥?Exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Bridgestone庐 RE070A high-capacity run-flat summer tires, 255/40ZRF20 97Y front and 285/35ZRF20 100Y rear.

    鈥?Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS).

    Brakes

    鈥?Brembo庐 4-wheel disc brakes with 4-wheel Antilock Braking System (ABS), Electronic Brakeforce Distribution and Preview Braking.

    鈥?Two-piece floating-rotor 15-inch front and rear discs with diamond-pattern internal ventilation.

    鈥?6-piston front/4-piston rear monoblock calipers.

    Steering

    鈥?Rack-and-pinion steering with vehicle-speed-sensitive power assist.

    鈥?2.6 steering-wheel turns lock-to-lock.

    Suspension

    鈥?4-wheel independent suspension with Bilstein庐 DampTronic system with three driver-selectable modes: Normal/Sport (for automatic electronic control of damping), Comfort (for maximum ride comfort), and R mode (engages maximum damping rate for high-performance cornering).

    鈥?Electronically controlled variable-rate shock absorbers. High-accuracy progressive-rate coil springs.

    鈥?Front double-wishbone/rear multi-link configuration with aluminum members and rigid aluminum subframes.

    鈥?Hollow front and rear stabilizer bars.

    Body/Chassis

    鈥?Exclusive Premium Midship platform with jig-welded hybrid unibody.

    鈥?Aluminum hood, trunk and door skins. Die-cast aluminum door structures.

    鈥?Carbon-reinforced front crossmember/radiator support.
    Who likes the new gtr coming to America?
    it will be a fast car but the price is going to be very high. I am happy to see it come to the US though

    Hercules WOW or Hercules cycles or hero cycles?

    Hi All,



    During my childwood i puchased Hercules MTB i used this very roughly from 8th std to 12th std.I was totally fit and enjoyed my riding each day , this was the basic model without any gears but i used to ride for 20kms every day. (1993 to 1998). My cycle was my life at this time.



    Later in 2002 i entered the software profession i was fit healthy and muscular, but down the time this stamina got declining,



    My friends and readers(Other Software professionals) will know why it happened to me?



    Reason : Sloggin and working on computer for a long time. Life style totally changed i used my car and 2 wheeler for most of the transportation.





    I was really embarrassed and depressed reg my health and my situation, but I never found a way to overcome this, but I always used to repent on this.



    Then on one day i thought i will commute to office by using cycle.



    I took Hero Hawk (With out gears) for communting from office to home, i rode this for 1 month, but i used to put lot of efforts on cycling.



    Later i developed back pain because this cycle was not a perfect design for my body鈥檚 attributes(iam 100 Kilos and 5鈥?%26quot;) The seat of this bicycle is really pathetic



    I donated this bicycle(Hero Hawk)



    My health started declining onceagain daily i used to think weather i will survive or not for the another 1 year.



    I started doing Yoga and Brisk walking now iam fit and energetic now i love myself and have pride about myself .



    After 2 months i wanted to go for a bicycle once again but but this time i did a lots of research on bikes and came to know that i have to use a good bike(BICYCLE) where in which the efforts for pedalling should be very very less this and this are all my findings.



    Hero:



    1) Octane DTB1 (5500rs)

    2) Octane DTB2 (5500 rs)

    3) Octane Nv (5500rs)

    4) Octane 26t (7500 rs with speed brakes)

    all the above models have 21 gears.



    Hercules Models



    1) Hecules Turbodrive

    2) Hercules wow(18 gear ) - 5500 rs

    3) Hercules Wow -(21 gears with speed brake) - 7500rs

    4) Hercules dtb4 -(21 gears but a heavy vehicle)-5500rs

    5) Hercules DTB5-(21 gears aluminum bike ) - 6500 rs

    6) Hercules Fusion (6 gears) - 3500rs

    7) Hercules fusion whith shock absorbers(6 gears) - 4000rs.



    Trek Models



    1) Trek 3700 ( 17000 rs )

    2) Trek 4300(22000 rs +)



    Merrida



    1) model 1

    2) Model 2



    the prices of merrida is same as trek models.



    FireFox



    1) Basic Model with 6 gears starts from 6000 rs+



    For me i dont wanted to invest a large amount for bicycle, because if some theft happens i would repent a lot then i dont wanted to go for an international or imported brand because of maintainence issues.



    so i choosed 2 indian Brands



    1) Hero and 2) Hercules.



    With the review comments that what i have read in the internet directly i rejected hero brand.



    My inclination started growing with hercules. and i decided to go for any one of the below bikes



    1) Hercules Wow (18 Gear)

    2) Hercules dtb 5(21 gear)



    While commuting to office with my Petrol Vehicle i always scanned the roads for this higer end bicycles i found a couple of riders with Hercules Wow. They gave me the best feed back reg this Bikes.



    Then i made my mind to buy hercules WoW (18 Gear)- 5500RS.



    To make this decesion i have done mining on the different category of cycles.



    The feedback from various people who were using Hercules Wow is amazing. i will be purchasing this bicycle at the earliest and i will presume my cycling journey of my life once again to keep myself fit , energetic, active and to build stamina.





    I have done lots and lots of research on bicycles.



    Below are some of the links you can look in to (Because i have used this links for my initial research)





    http://groups.google.co.in/group/Bangalore-bikers

    http://www.bikeszone.com/

    http://www.bumsonthesaddle.com/mountainBikes



    If you still require any other info or want to make some decesion you can mail me back or call me up.



    This is my number 9916487474



    All the best for other who are venturing for getting new bicycles.



    Purchase Price (INR): 5500
    Hercules WOW or Hercules cycles or hero cycles?
    toast
    Hercules WOW or Hercules cycles or hero cycles?
    hercules is definitely a better bike in performance and comfort than hero

    Report Abuse


    hercules is the best make compared than hero
    All the models you specified are for those who are lightly built.

    I think the best model for u is Hercules Ryders 108 with 21 gears.

    It will coast about rs.8000
    Best of the above is Hercules WOW 21 but the price you have mentioned is not correct WOW 21 with front and rear shock absorbers front and rear disc breaks and 21 shumano gears cost you close to Rs.9000/-. But it got value for money and its superb.

    Hercules Wow or Hercules cycles or Hero cycles or Merrida or TREK Cycles?

    Hi All,



    During my childwood i puchased Hercules MTB i used this very roughly from 8th std to 12th std.I was totally fit and enjoyed my riding each day , this was the basic model without any gears but i used to ride for 20kms every day. (1993 to 1998). My cycle was my life at this time.



    Later in 2002 i entered the software profession i was fit healthy and muscular, but down the time this stamina got declining,



    My friends and readers(Other Software professionals) will know why it happened to me?



    Reason : Sloggin and working on computer for a long time. Life style totally changed i used my car and 2 wheeler for most of the transportation.





    I was really embarrassed and depressed reg my health and my situation, but I never found a way to overcome this, but I always used to repent on this.



    Then on one day i thought i will commute to office by using cycle.



    I took Hero Hawk (With out gears) for communting from office to home, i rode this for 1 month, but i used to put lot of efforts on cycling.



    Later i developed back pain because this cycle was not a perfect design for my body鈥檚 attributes(iam 100 Kilos and 5鈥?%26quot;) The seat of this bicycle is really pathetic



    I donated this bicycle(Hero Hawk)



    My health started declining onceagain daily i used to think weather i will survive or not for the another 1 year.



    I started doing Yoga and Brisk walking now iam fit and energetic now i love myself and have pride about myself .



    After 2 months i wanted to go for a bicycle once again but but this time i did a lots of research on bikes and came to know that i have to use a good bike(BICYCLE) where in which the efforts for pedalling should be very very less this and this are all my findings.



    Hero:



    1) Octane DTB1 (5500rs)

    2) Octane DTB2 (5500 rs)

    3) Octane Nv (5500rs)

    4) Octane 26t (7500 rs with speed brakes)

    all the above models have 21 gears.



    Hercules Models



    1) Hecules Turbodrive

    2) Hercules wow(18 gear ) - 5500 rs

    3) Hercules Wow -(21 gears with speed brake) - 7500rs

    4) Hercules dtb4 -(21 gears but a heavy vehicle)-5500rs

    5) Hercules DTB5-(21 gears aluminum bike ) - 6500 rs

    6) Hercules Fusion (6 gears) - 3500rs

    7) Hercules fusion whith shock absorbers(6 gears) - 4000rs.



    Trek Models



    1) Trek 3700 ( 17000 rs )

    2) Trek 4300(22000 rs +)



    Merrida



    1) model 1

    2) Model 2



    the prices of merrida is same as trek models.



    FireFox



    1) Basic Model with 6 gears starts from 6000 rs+



    For me i dont wanted to invest a large amount for bicycle, because if some theft happens i would repent a lot then i dont wanted to go for an international or imported brand because of maintainence issues.



    so i choosed 2 indian Brands



    1) Hero and 2) Hercules.



    With the review comments that what i have read in the internet directly i rejected hero brand.



    My inclination started growing with hercules. and i decided to go for any one of the below bikes



    1) Hercules Wow (18 Gear)

    2) Hercules dtb 5(21 gear)



    While commuting to office with my Petrol Vehicle i always scanned the roads for this higer end bicycles i found a couple of riders with Hercules Wow. They gave me the best feed back reg this Bikes.



    Then i made my mind to buy hercules WoW (18 Gear)- 5500RS.



    To make this decesion i have done mining on the different category of cycles.



    The feedback from various people who were using Hercules Wow is amazing. i will be purchasing this bicycle at the earliest and i will presume my cycling journey of my life once again to keep myself fit , energetic, active and to build stamina.





    I have done lots and lots of research on bicycles.



    Below are some of the links you can look in to (Because i have used this links for my initial research)





    http://groups.google.co.in/group/Bangalore-bikers

    http://www.bikeszone.com/

    http://www.bumsonthesaddle.com/mountainBikes



    If you still require any other info or want to make some decesion you can mail me back or call me up.



    This is my number 9916487474



    All the best for other who are venturing for getting new bicycles.



    Purchase Price (INR): 5500
    Hercules Wow or Hercules cycles or Hero cycles or Merrida or TREK Cycles?
    Hercules Wow -(21 gears with speed brake) - 7500rs.........this is the best one.........my bro. brought it..........try it out......
    Hercules Wow or Hercules cycles or Hero cycles or Merrida or TREK Cycles?
    Hi Friend Y / Divya,



    How would you compare Hercules Wow with Hero Ranger DTB? Do we have some analysis?



    I am more interested for Ranger DTB because it has good mud-guards and a carrier, which is a must in my wish list. Also the price is much lower in comparison. I do not care about more weight

    Report Abuse

  • put site on a dedicated server
  • i have many invention ideas
  • Few Economic questions (macroeconomics)?

    1) The effects of a change in government expenditures is multiplied throughout an economy

    a) only when there is a decrease in expenditure.

    b) only when there is an increase in expenditure.

    c) because government expenditure generates changes in consumption expenditure.

    d) because taxes are left unchanged.

    I think the answer is c here, but I'm not sure.



    2) Income taxes and transfer payments

    a) increase the rate of long-run income growth.

    b) act like economic shock absorbers and stabilize fluctuations in income.

    c) increase the effects of investment and imports.

    d) prevent the economy from moving toward equilibrium.

    I think it's either b or c, but I'm not sure at all.



    3) Using the AD-AS model, an increase in government expenditure

    a) has a full multiplier effect on real GDP, leaving the price level unchanged in the long run.

    b) has no impact on real GDP, but will increase potential GDP.

    c) increases both real GDP and the price level.

    d) has no impact on real GDP.

    I'm pretty sure it has an impact on GDP, but not sure about the price level.



    -Thanks for any help.
    Few Economic questions (macroeconomics)?
    U see when a girl moose and a guy moose love each other very much they go to walmart and they look at the teddy bears, when they find a teddy bear they want they take it to costumer service and they ask for a price check. The staff member starts to talk about the economy, and how Pi (3.14) is fluxed with a dragon ball Z trading card that is then shipped to Jebuddie (a country in Africa) when it gets to Jebuddie it is then raped by Santa Clause and Micheal Jackson. Then after (69) and vanilla sex they move on to security, where they have to get a search, (a full cavity search). When they are done with there sexy, hot SMBD stuff, they go to a mental hospital named Acadia. There they meet a sexy Latino pool boy named Edwardo who has to wear a uniform approved by the board of education (Obama) who makes him wear a G string. After that they go to the store again and they buy whip cream, and strawberry's. Soon after the events at the store they go to hollywood and see a plastic surgeon who points out to them that they need to go to a zebra that is a stripper named Mortikie. Then when the Pigeon is finished making the bread with the mail man, ( inside joke). The boyfriend that is nagging me, and is about to (events censored.).............

    Few Macroeconomic questions?

    1) The effects of a change in government expenditures is multiplied throughout an economy

    a) only when there is a decrease in expenditure.

    b) only when there is an increase in expenditure.

    c) because government expenditure generates changes in consumption expenditure.

    d) because taxes are left unchanged.

    I think the answer is c here, but I'm not sure.



    2) Income taxes and transfer payments

    a) increase the rate of long-run income growth.

    b) act like economic shock absorbers and stabilize fluctuations in income.

    c) increase the effects of investment and imports.

    d) prevent the economy from moving toward equilibrium.

    I think it's either b or c, but I'm not sure at all.



    3) Using the AD-AS model, an increase in government expenditure

    a) has a full multiplier effect on real GDP, leaving the price level unchanged in the long run.

    b) has no impact on real GDP, but will increase potential GDP.

    c) increases both real GDP and the price level.

    d) has no impact on real GDP.

    I'm pretty sure it has an impact on GDP, but not sure about the price level.



    -Thanks for any help.
    Few Macroeconomic questions?
    haha. hated macro. um, i'm gonna go with d, c, b.





    (i may or may not be giving your bogus answers to get you for cheating.......)

    98 Honda Civic pulling to left and car feels wobbly?

    A few weeks back, my 98 Honda Civic- hatchback 1.4i started feeling wobbly and also started pulling to the left. It felt like driving continously on a bumpy road.



    I took it to 3 different garages to get it checked. Have changed 2 x tyres that were running low on tread, got wheel tracking and balancing done for all 4 wheels, got the leaking shock absorbers replaced and finally got the worn out bushes replaced. Still there is no change in the driving comfort. It still feels wobbly...sometimes giving me motion sickness and still pulls to the left.



    I took it back to one of the garages and they said that they have checked everything very carefully, but were unable to find anything wrong. Not sure what to do next. Any advice would me much appreciated. Thanks a lot.
    98 Honda Civic pulling to left and car feels wobbly?
    Did they change all 4 tires? back tires could be bad too. Drive axles could be bent or worn out , Cv joints could be bad, bearings could be bad, bent rims as well.

    I would find a new shop or take it to some one who can check it all out

    Broken belts in tires can cause this too back tires as I said.
    98 Honda Civic pulling to left and car feels wobbly?
    Don't know if you meant track rod ends when you said bushes but that is what it sounds like to me. Jack the front wheels one at a time and pull/push the sides of the tyre to see if the wheel %26quot;moves%26quot; which would show a dodgy track rod end.
    you could check the brake discs to make sure they arnt warped get someone to do a runout test

    that could cause a wobble also the wheel bearings get them checked too good luck....
    The wobble could be the steering track rod end worn,or a tyre with a side wall bulge,either front or back,to eliminate this get the car jacked just off the ground and spin the wheel round and look at it from front or back so you can see both sidewalls,do this to all tyres and wheels,if you find one with a lump change it for the spare after checking that as well, drive shaft can bend if the cars been curbed also the steering rack maybe loose,another cause of pulling can be the brakes either warped as mention by others as was the drive shafts and track rods/ends,if the brakes are binding i.e. locking on ,or not working properly at all this will cause the car to veer and pull, does the pull happen in a straight line without braking,or only when braking, as if only when braking then this would seem to be the cause, if not when braking then shafts,track rods and ends,tyres,will need to be checked for security and bends,the Constant Velocity Joint on the drive shafts would make a knocking sound on full lock,wheel bearing normally sound like a grumbling sound, chassis alignment as a last resort,if had a knock or crash.hope this helps and good luck .
    There are a number of possible causes for your problems and they should be diagnosed by a professional auto shop. I suggest that instead of taking the vehicle to a general repair shop, you take it to a shop that specializes in brakes, suspension, and alignment. And by the way, the pulling and the wobbling may or may not be related to one another.



    It's true that either symptom could be caused by a tire problem. However, if the tires you replaced were in the front and the problems persist (and taking into consideration the other work done on the wheels and tires), the symptoms are most likely being caused by something else besides the tires or wheels.



    In regards to the %26quot;wobble%26quot; it is hard to make much of an accurate guess without more information and/or test driving the vehicle. However, if by wobble you mean that it feels like the front tires are moving back and forth rapidly, there may be a problem with loose or damaged steering components (e.g. tie rods and/or steering rack), or possibly damaged wheel bearings.



    If by wobble you mean that the car has continuous up and down motion after going over bumps or uneven road surfaces, then there may be a problem with the shocks or struts.



    If wobble means the car sways in a back on forth motion as you drive, as if you were in a boat, it may more likely be related to the sway bar or sway bar links.



    And the wobble could also be caused by improper alignment angles, so that should DEFINITELY be checked.



    Some possibilities for the pulling problem include worn or damaged steering components (as listed above), or a problem with the brake system. The diagnostic process for brake pull is too long to post here and should be done by a professional. And again, improper alignment angles can be causing the pull, so you will want to get that checked.



    A note about the alignment...while it is true that improper alignment angles can be causing these symptoms, it should be noted that the true problem may be elsewhere. Any monkey can operate alignment equipment and adjust the angles, but a good alignment shop/tech will analyze the numbers and ask *why* the car is out of alignment. If there is an underlying problem, adjusting the alignment angles will not solve it and the car will simply go out of alignment again. Keep that in mind when looking for a good shop to do the work on your vehicle.



    Best of luck to you!

    Would wearing extra socks make me faster?

    I trust physics on my life.



    Here's a small fact on my physic textbook:



    %26quot;Running shoes as shock absorbers: Today, much of the focus of running shoe technology centers on the cushioned midsole that plays a key role as a shock absorber and performance enhancer. Each time a runner鈥檚 foot hits the ground, the ground exerts an equal and opposite force on the runner鈥檚 foot. This force can be nearly four times a runner鈥檚 weight, causing aches and pains, shin splints, and damage to knees and ankles over long distances. Cushioning is used in running shoes to decrease the force absorbed by the runner. As a runner鈥檚 foot hits the ground and come to a stop, its momentum changes. The change in momentum is 螖p = F螖t.



    A shoe鈥檚 cushioning system also affects energy consumption. The bones, muscles, ligaments, and tendons of the foot and leg are a natural cushioning system. But operating this system requires the body to use stored energy to contract muscles. So if a s shoe can be worn that assists a runner鈥檚 natural cushioning system, the runner does not expand much of his or her own stored energy. The energy the runner saved can be spent to run farther or faster. The cushioned midsole uses the law of conversation of energy to return as much of the energy to the runner as possible. The runner鈥檚 kinetic energy transformers to elastic potential energy, plus heat, when the runner鈥檚 foot hits the running surface. If the runner can reduce the amount of energy that is lost as heat, the runner鈥檚 elastic potential energy can be converted back to useful kinetic energy. Bouncy, springy, elastic materials that resist crushing over time commonly are used t o create the cushioned midsole. Options now range from silicone gel pads to complex fluid-filled systems and even springs to give a runner extra energy efficiency.%26quot;







    So would wearing extra sock reduce the amount of energy lost, which I can spend to run faster? (I get tired pretty easy.)
    Would wearing extra socks make me faster?
    its a good theory but running isnt a science. its about how you feel. i never thought about the physics behiind it but if you wear extra soxks it will feel like more weight on your feet and you will feel heavier. i dont wear any socks during cross country races and it makes me feel alot lighter even though its only ounces. it makes you do better and run faster if you feel better. theres no explination or science to it.

    Spring Constant?! HELP!?

    Cars have springs and shock absorbers that dampen vibrations. If the suspension of a rear spring is responsible to absorb the change in potential energy as a car falls down into a pothole, find the spring constant of the rear spring. Assume the mass over the spring is 500 kg, the pothole is 5.0 cm deep and the spring compresses by 1.0 cm.



    Please show all work so that I can understand everything! Thank youu!!
    Spring Constant?! HELP!?
    According to Hooke's Law:



    F= -kx



    Where F is the force experienced, k is the spring constant and x is the distance the spring is compressed.



    F=ma

    Therefore, -kx=ma

    %26gt;%26gt; -k = (ma)/x



    %26gt;%26gt; -k = (500kg*9.8m/s/s)/(-.01m) (9.8 m/s/s due to gravity)

    %26gt;%26gt; k = 490000N/m
  • hair bands
  • remove brontok
  • How to solve these questions?

    1.Which of the following will reduce the velocity of circulation of the money stock?



    a. The inflation rate increases.

    b. The interest rate falls.

    c. Credit cards are used more frequently.

    d. More employees are paid once a week instead of once a month.



    2. The inflation rate in May of 1999 as a measure by the CPI was zero. If inflation were to remain at zero for a long period, what would be the effect on velocity?



    a. It will decrease.

    b. It will increase.

    c. It will remain constant.

    d. Velocity is unrelated to interest rates.



    3. As we approached the end of the millennium, many economic crackpots advised citizens to hold large quantities of cash in anticipation of Y2K disasters. What effect would this have had on velocity if many people had been foolish enough to follow this advice?



    a. It would have decreased.

    b. It would have increased.

    c. It would have remained constant.

    d. Velocity is unrelated to cash balances.



    4. Monetarism resembles Keynesian thinking in that they both



    a. emphasize supply and ignore demand.

    b. integrate supply-side analysis into their models.

    c. emphasize demand side effects.

    d. emphasize the importance of fiscal policy.



    5. Which of the following leads to a fundamental difficulty for stabilization policy?



    a. Time lags in policy decisions

    b. Presence of shock absorbers in the economy

    c. Absence of data on the effectiveness of policy measures

    d. Existence of self correcting mechanism

    6. How do critics of discretionary stabilization policy view frequent changes in spending and tax policy?



    a. The changes make the economy smoother, although it may not look that way to individual firms.

    b. The changes make life more difficult and hectic for Congress and the Fed.

    c. The changes smooth out the business cycle, making planning easier.

    d. The changes cause more instability in the economy and make planning more difficult.



    7. How do advocates of discretionary stabilization policy view frequent changes in spending and tax policy?



    a. The changes make the economy more difficult to forecast.

    b. The changes make life more difficult and hectic for Congress and the Fed.

    c. The changes smooth out the business cycle, making planning easier.

    d. The changes cause more instability in the economy and make planning more difficult.



    8. Suppose that the economy is currently at full employment. All other things being equal, if central bank implements contractionary policy, then the appropriate fiscal policy is to



    a. increase taxes.

    b. reduce government spending.

    c. balance the budget.

    d. increase a budget deficit.

    9. Lowering the budget deficit and then turning it into a surplus between 1992 and 2000 was an effective way to



    a. decrease the level of investment spending and inflation.

    b. increase the level of the national debt.

    c. increase the investment share of GDP.

    d. decrease the tax share of GDP

    10.If in fiscal year 2001, the federal government receives $1,990 billion in revenues and spends $1,875 billion for goods and services, the national debt will



    a. increase by $1,990 billion.

    b. increase by $115 billion.

    c. decrease by $115 billion.

    d. decrease by $1,875 billion.
    How to solve these questions?
    To read more about macro economics related topics visit:

    http://www.tutebox.com/category/educatio鈥?/a>

    Will different size tires on the same axle harm my car?

    9 months ago I got four new tires on my car. Since then I have driven more than 10 000 miles. My car was recently serviced and they discovered that the right-hand tires are a slightly different size to the left-hand tires. This was an error made by the garage that fitted them and means that the car has not been legal for the last nine months.



    The garage have offered new tires for free. I wonder however whether this could have caused any other problems to my car since I have driven so much on these tires. Could it have affected the wear on the shock absorbers, brakes etc? Should I be asking them to check or change anything else?



    Any advice appreciated, thanks
    Will different size tires on the same axle harm my car?
    Not knowing what size tires you have makes it pretty tough to say whether or not it was a large enough difference to cause any damage. After 10k if you haven't had any problems I suspect that the difference was minor. Have the shop replace the tires with the proper size for your vehicle. Your best option is to have the new tires paired up on the same axle. If you have a front wheel drive vehicle you should put them on the front. If your vehicle is rear wheel drive you should have the shop measure the tread depth and check for any irregular wear in the other tires and determine the best placement for the new tires base on that. There really shouldn't be any problems with the brakes or chassis components of the vehicle as a result. The major concern would be the drive axle or trans axle if the difference in overall diameter was greater than about 3 to 5 percent but you would have most likely already had an issue if this was the case.
    Will different size tires on the same axle harm my car?
    I think its a little unsafe, but it shouldn't have caused any damage
    HI

    depending on how much of a difference there was it could cause damage to the rear end as well as front end parts. At 10,000 miles had you ever had them rotated? Maybe you back tires call for a bigger tire than the front. If so maybe the people that rotated them X'ed them instead of just going front to back.

    I'd take them up on the new tires and this time look at them and see that they are marked the same size..

    Good luck

    tim
    The different sized tires shouldn'tt of harmed anything on your vehicle, the shocks would of been compressed to a different %26quot;size%26quot; but it wouldnt hurt anything, if it is a small different in size, the only thing it might cause is rubbing in your wheel wells but6 you would of heard that along time ago
    Other than causing the car to lean to one side (apparently it wasn't that bad or you would have noticed it), it hasn't really hurt anything. Technically, it would have caused slightly more wear on the differential gears since they would have been differentiating slightly on straight roads, but the actual effect is similar to driving a very slightly curved road for a long time instead of a straight one.



    No worries.
    Hello



    No it wouldn't You do not say how they are different?

    If you look at a motor cycle you will see that the back one is always wider than the front and sometime bigger in diameter as well



    Car tyres are listed as 175/60/16

    175 Width of tyre mm / 60 Depth of tyre 60 % of Width mm / 16 Diameter of Wheel Rim Inches.

    If you have 2 bigger tyres fit to rear as these wheel do not turn the car

    Tyres best if all Radial or Cross-ply, If 2 and 2 have both Radial fitted to front or rear axles. Dangerous if 1 of each fitted to same axle.



    Andy C
    If no one had noticed this before, the difference must have very small. No harm would have been done to your car.
    for one, the differential has been working over time. it is not a good idea.
    if you havent seen the size difference and you havent noticed it drive any different in 10000 miles it wont have done any harm.



    take the garage up on their offer for new tyres and go on your way having had free tyres for 10000 miles!

    Vauxhall Cavalier Knocking noise?

    i have a cavalier 1993 1.8i petrol, and there is a knocking noise coming from the drivers sidesumwhere, i thought it may have been the shock absorbers but it wasnt even tho i had them changed, its not the anti role bar linkages, ive had new wishbones and a new leg put on and new brakes so it cant be them. ive heard that my back gearbox mount is gone and i need2 change that, cud that cause the knocking noise, its like metal knocking 2getha every so often when i turn corners or go over bumps. pls help as i need 2 sort it.
    Vauxhall Cavalier Knocking noise?
    phoo phoo valve system has gone . common fault
    Vauxhall Cavalier Knocking noise?
    wheel bearings gone

    Vauxhall Cavalier Knocking Noise?

    i have a cavalier 1993 1.8i petrol, and there is a knocking noise coming from the drivers sidesumwhere, i thought it may have been the shock absorbers but it wasnt even tho i had them changed, its not the anti role bar linkages, ive had new wishbones and a new leg put on and new brakes so it cant be them. ive heard that my back gearbox mount is gone and i need2 change that, cud that cause the knocking noise, its like metal knocking 2getha every so often when i turn corners or go over bumps. pls help as i need 2 sort it.
    Vauxhall Cavalier Knocking Noise?
    Your CV joint has gone.
    Vauxhall Cavalier Knocking Noise?
    It does sound like the CV joint, I had a cavalier the same as you a few years ago and had the same problem. I couldn't figure it either but my local garage found it was the CV joint. When you had the shock absorbers and wishbones changed they should have spotted the wear on one of the CV joints, especially if it was recent. If the work was done within the last three months it should have shown up on inspection, they tend to wear slowly.

    Its a good motor the cavalier.

    Andy

    Car Trouble?

    I Recently Went down a rather large kurb the car made a loud bang as if i hit the floor with the front bumper after the bump i checked everywhere not a scratch in fact nothing... then i got in the car and everytime i go over a speed bump or brake change gear anything that basically makes the front end move up or down i get a stange squeeking noise?!?! it sounds like the squeek you hear on a rocking chair we think its the shock absorbers am i wrong please i need your HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Car Trouble?
    Could be a number of things. Personally, I`d get it checked by a mechanic, particularly if there was a bang after you hit the curb and could`nt see any damage.
    Car Trouble?
    I doubt it is a shock. It could be many things in the front end. If you can't tell by looking under there, Take it someone and let them check it for you
    something in the suspension ,sounds like shocks or springs.have someone push the car up and down,while you look under to see or hear the problem
    I believe that the noise that you are hearing is the sway arm bushings, sometimes they get shoved around when you ground them out. They may be also just dry and in need of some lubrication also check to be sure the links to the control arms aren't bent.
    I think its the struts (shock absorbers). It would squeak on small bumps and thud on larger ones, especially if its a sudden bump at a relatively faster speed. Have your suspension visually checked by a mechanic when you have your next oil change (while the car is on the lift). If they don't see anything wrong, it really might be the struts. The strut problem is diagnosed by driving.
    Check the shocks by placing yours hands on the curb, and street-side, front of your vehicle. Push down like you're giving CPR, and let go. If the vehicle dips and rises continuously, it's your shocks. If it comes back up right away, and doesn't dip down (solid feeling), check your coil springs. Also, the control arms, AKA A-arms, should be checked to make sure no bushings, bolts, or other components that keep this valuable item working properly are loose, broken, missing, or bent.
  • my myspace
  • hair gel
  • How To Reduce Racquet Noise?

    I own tennis and badminton racquets and they make irritating echo noises because of the aluminum. the shock absorber doesn't help reduce the noise and the echo noise gets in the way of hearing a nice %26quot;plop%26quot; sound when i hit the tennis ball or shuttlecock. does anyone know what i need to do to reduce or get rid of the noise? i dont want to change strings or switch to graphite raqcuets.



    thanks!
    How To Reduce Racquet Noise?
    Get real. Aluminium racquets are such old material that why bother to consider them. The are currently sold as a cheap $20 racquet for little kids who don;t have the power to realyl felx a frame. Even for kids, most manufacturers offer a premium carbon fibre or fused titanium model. The Aluminium racquets offers for adults are basically offered by low price %26quot;big box%26quot; stores to sucker you into thinking you are getting a %26quot;tennis racuqet%26quot;.
    How To Reduce Racquet Noise?
    Richard is right. Aluminum racquets are highly outdated since the 80s. I honesty think you should just switch to another racquet.



    But if anything, get a special dampener called the Babolat RVS. The dampener doesn't just take out vibration from the strings, but the frame itself. It may help a bit.
    Do not have your racket restrung as the strings would be worth more than your racket. Save your money and upgrade as soon as you can. The rackets today make it so much easier to play. Call around some places let you demo for free. Check a few rackets out.
    Tighten your strings.

    How do I fix wheels rubbing the guard on my Impreza?

    Without changing wheels! I have had 17in wheels on my car for well over a year and love them...apart from one small detail. They're too wide! When I have more than one person sitting in the back seat the clearance between the wheel and the guard becomes like 3mm (down from 120mm) and it does some damage. I have rolled the inside of the guards up without any luck. I'm wondering if there is a way to get harder springs/shock absorbers so they won't budge too much with extra weight, sacrificing a smooth ride is OK with me. Any help is appreciated. The car is a 1993 Subaru Impreza that is entirely unmodified apart from the 17in wheels. Thanks
    How do I fix wheels rubbing the guard on my Impreza?
    Your going to want to get some camber plates so you are able to run some camber in the rear so they tuck inside instead of rubbing on the fender. RCE makes some good ones and they usually do the trick, you will need to get an alignment so they can adjust your car so that the wheels dont rub. Springs wont do much for you since they still have some play but if you upgrade struts and spring that will help stiffen your ride and wont let the rear end go so far down. Coilovers do the same but they are a tad more expensive.

    Electrical problem causing misfire?

    My little Chevy is having some problems.



    I'll start with the story, to make it easier to explain:

    I haven't had the truck long, but it has demonstrated few problems. I was driving along, on a long trip(about 2.5 hours about 120 miles?) back to school from home, it has made this journey before, twice and when I was almost at my destination when I realized that my lane was ending. I had to accelerate and pass a semi (I didn't think to brake) which led my poor little 4 cylinder to about 80 mph or a little over, and shortly after overcoming the semi and changing lanes, we started up a hill. I noticed the spedometer dropping and I thought %26quot;What a steep hill this must be%26quot; -- until it hit 55 and kept dropping. I promptly pulled over and started freaking out. Long story short the Truck was towed a few miles. Point of interest: When the truck was deposited in the parking lot my friend came to check it out. It started immediately and he drove it around the parking lot. We turned it off, I started it and drove it to a parking lot closer to my dorm... no problems at all. (I had jiggled the spark plug wires at my friend's request, but they were too hot to really mess with. I recalled that when changing the plugs one sat a little loose, so I thought maybe by jiggling the wires I had somehow rectified the situation and dismissed it)



    A few days pass, and I try driving it around, getting it closer to my dorm, one parking lot at a time (mostly just testing to see that it still works) - No problems at all.



    A week after the first incident I decide to give it a better test, hoping to put my worries to rest. I drive about 5-10 miles and park it while I do a little shopping. I come back out about 30 minutes later and it starts up, I'm not worried at all. I start driving and get to a stop light as I emerge from a minor road. After a minute or so I feel the truck start that familiar pattern of uneasiness. Stuck there waiting for another minute the shaking gets steadily worse. By the time the light changes I have little power and make it only across the street before it's out. I milk the engine for a few more feet to get out of the line of traffic and at that point it has nothing left to give. I get out and attempt to mess with the spark plug wires, hoping, praying that that would help... No avail. The truck was towed back to the same parking lot (thank god I bought a AAA membership) and I left it.



    I went back today to check it out, my dad hypothesized that the truck has a problem when it gets hot or reaches operating temperature. I started the truck, it started like normal. I gave it a few seconds and it continued to run smoothly. I opened the hood and listened, no abnormal sounds (not that my ear is very trained..) I drove it about half a mile to a better parking lot. It worked fine. What I didn't do was sit and wait for it to get hot. I regret that now but I'm already typing this, and that's something that will always be available upon request.



    So yeah. The second incident was basically identical to the first. The truck starts normally, then runs poorly--shaking the whole truck. A few times it died, a few times I gave it a mercy kill because I just can't imagine letting it run like that being a good thing. I didn't try to accelerate all the times it stayed alive, but the few times I did it died as I let the clutch out.



    A little additional info: (First a little basic stuff.. The truck's engine was rebuilt a while ago, that's all I know as there is no paperwork, but the transmission has been rebuilt and only has about 20k miles on it) the truck was lowered (improperly.. they just cut the springs and left them.. ugh) when I got it(It had only been so for about three years, during which there hadn't been much driving on it *Probably due to the discomfort*), we replaced the springs and shock absorbers, removed the blocks on the back, and reset it. It took bumps like brick walls, which I've heard is horrible for anything electrical, and experienced - my ac used to go on and off when i hit bumps.

    I add that because my dad and a friend of mine suspect that it's something electrical. When I just checked it I looked at the wires coming from the distributor cap and going to the spark plugs to make sure they weren't burned or touching anything hot. They were all clipped pretty well and it looks like they're fine except one that missed a clip because it wouldn't have been able to reach that rests against the ac compressor(I think) but it didn't look like it had taken any damage.



    I'm no mechanic, I know very little about cars other than what I've read and what I've deduced from my little time under the hood, so I'm asking you guys for some help to potentially save a poor college student the expenses of going to a mechanic.



    A little lengthy, hopefully it won't scare anyone off.
    Electrical problem causing misfire?
    There is no such thing as too lengthy when describing symptomatics of vehicle failure. The more I have to go by, the less speculation that is in the logical conclusion.

    You said a little chevy truck. I dont know about these other guys, but that should be enough for me. either a 2.8 or 4.3 is what that means, possibly a 3.1 if it is newer.

    It seems by your explanation that you have a clogged catalytic convertor. This is how they behave, as when the exhaust system gets hot, the pieces blocking the pathway expand and come to restrict the passage of exhaust. If the exhaust cannot exit the motor, the engine will give that strange vibration as it is using and re using the exhaust gasses along with the little it can get of fuel because their is very limited outward flow. if it cannot exit, it cannot enter because there is too much pressure on the exhaust side. the vibration occurrs when the engine piston stroke tries to pump it in but there is no exit of combustion. Drive it to an exhaust shop and have them measure the input and output pipe temperatures from the cat. convtr. you can also get it idling till the engine is at operating temp, then have someone step on the gas as you have your hand over the tailpipe to feel the exhaust flow. if the flow does not increase greatly when it is revved up, and or if the exhaust is minimal, it is probably the catalytic convertor.



    He means the spark module below my post. the electronic control module (ECM) is the computer located passenger under dash or passenger kick panel



    Still think it's the cat. esp w/ those miles.

    NOTE: The loss of power while running denounces an electrical fault, which is sudden dead stop with the exception of weak coils which would make cold stats very difficult. This is not the case.

    Your vehicle does not have an electrical problem. Catalytic Convertors especially on a GM TBI engine clogg quickly, like 100 grand and it's clogged. Go to the exhaust shop and you will see for sure.. The song you sang says it's the cat.
    Electrical problem causing misfire?
    Blah blah blah.How about a year, make , model,
    It's very difficult to say what is wrong from your description. It does sound as though there is something being effected by heat.

    Does this thing have any gauges? temperature, oil pressure, tachometer, voltage? Knowing the status of some of those things can be helpful.

    I'm suspecting a fuel pump, ignition problem (a coil, wires, or module), or even an overheat. Debris in the fuel tank can cause this. There's a number of things that could be wrong. You'll have to do a little more detective work.

    What sort of shaking? This happens only while moving?

    Make, model, and what it does or doesn't do is what you need to ask about. It doesn't matter where or why you were going.
    If only you had told us what it was, besides my little Chevy. From the info. available I would suspect the cat. converter and maybe some other things. Not knowing the year model can't even guess as don't know if obd1 or obd2. You should have a check engine light on, if you have one
    misfire is from....



    improper timing, spark plug wires in wrong position, distrubitor plugged wrong, valve timing wrong. do an overhaul, redo the whole process, starting from easy(spark plug wires) then to the timing. hard to say man, its better if someone was to look at it.
    I'm not a professional mechanic but I have worked in a couple of garages. It sounds like you have a bad electronic control module. It is located in the distributor. Take the cap off, then the rotor button. You shuold be able to see it, kind of looks like a stretched out U. There should only be to screws holding it in. There are also two plugs, one on each end, you can unplug these either before or after you take it out. You might have to wiggle it a little to get out. AutoZone or Advance will test this unit for free to make sure it is bad. Hopefully this helps.

    When i need to change the nytrogen on my rear socker?

    i think it's located on the rear shock absorber. please suggest.
    When i need to change the nytrogen on my rear socker?
    What makes you think that you need to change the nitrogen?
    When i need to change the nytrogen on my rear socker?
    when you needed that time yes

    What is making this squeaking noise on my Ford Explorer?

    I have a '97 For Explorer XLT V6. Whenever I go over bumps or turn the steering wheel I hear squeaking noises.



    The bump squeaking is clearly something with the suspension. I've had one shock absorber replaced but still makes noise.



    The squeaking I hear while turning is the same sound (or at least sounds the same) except its only when actually turning the wheel.



    Anyone have any ideas about what is the likely culprit? Like I said, my mechanic changed 1 shock, but the sound persisted and I'm wondering whether they even bothered looking into the problem at all.
    What is making this squeaking noise on my Ford Explorer?
    most likely it is your joints in your a frames , there are no grease fittings in them , so after awhile the factory grease and teflon wear out and start to squeak. you can replace them ,but there not cheap
    What is making this squeaking noise on my Ford Explorer?
    you need lay under it ,while you have someone move/bounce the front of the car up and down. without the eng running. you should be able to hear where it is coming from. could be a dry or worn ball joint, or the bushings in the A frame. Dont go back to that mech.
    have someone in car=start engine with hood open//put your hand on shock tower and turn wheel and see if you can get it//usually its the top of the shock/strut where there is a bearing type plate and they squeak
    your brakes
  • Where can i get a cute new bed set
  • hair coloring
  • Car grinding sound on bumps...?

    I own a nissan sunny 2004 1.6, i had my routine car check at 80,000 Kms while reporting i had a problem of car makes grinding sound at bumps on front and back.



    They diagnosed and reported to change



    1. My front shock %26amp; back absorbers

    2. Engine mount (all 4 mounts)

    3. Tie Rod Rack end

    4. CV Joint boot all four

    5. Front Lower Arm both (2)



    I checked with my mechanic and replaced all of these above mentioned parts and additionally replace the brake pads shoes too. The only thing that was left is the front shock absorbers as the mechanic said the front suspension is ok, no need to replace it. now im comfortable with my ride. But still the sound in the front continues when on bumpy roads. Please help me to solve this problem. It's a headache, i almost lost money in replacing these parts. Now what else to do im stuck up....
    Car grinding sound on bumps...?
    if i were you id go back to that shop and have them take the wheel off, i think personally it might be the tie rod end, the racking pinion or even the steering gear, they were in the right spot i think they should look a little deeper....hope it works out for you email me if you have any questions!! oh yea and have them check the ball joint at the tie rod end because that is also a possibility bye!!

    How do i fit wider tyres with rims size 155 R 13 to my Lancia A122b junior?

    The vehicle currently has tyres and rims size 145 R 13 which are not readily available localy in Kenya, so I need to change to what is easily available. Any rim wider than 145mm touches the shock absorbers
    How do i fit wider tyres with rims size 155 R 13 to my Lancia A122b junior?
    You need to buy some wheel spacer kits - they come in various sizes and fit over the wheel nut bolts onto the brake drum outer casing!



    In UK they cost about 拢20 - you just need to make sure you buy the right size to allow clearance
    How do i fit wider tyres with rims size 155 R 13 to my Lancia A122b junior?
    heat ur wheel arches and then roll em out using a rubber pad.
    First, you need to measure your rim with...what you are giving us it the Tire size and a 155R13 is tall and wider than a 145R13.

    Here are your specs:

    145R13 is 22.4 inches tall and 5.7 inches wide.

    155R13 is 23 inches tall and 6.1 inches wide.



    You need spacers or new rims that kicks the offset away from the strut.



    Good Luck,

    Anyone know a lot about cars? I need help!!!?

    I took my car in for a service (1999 Vauxhall Tigra) and I cannot believe the quote they have given me to carry out repairs. Are there any mechanics out there who can tell me whether a) they are completely overcharging me and b) whether someone who fixes cars would buy this from me with these faults and how much for!



    OK this is the list of things they said was wrong;

    1) Excessive shudder whe moving from standstill possible clutch. advised strip for investigation.

    2) Car excessively smoking when revved, requires cylinder head gasket.

    3) Advised timing belt and spark plugs due to age and mileage if not been done.

    4) Back box baffles ex loose.

    5) 2 rear shockers leaking

    6) Excessive leak at power steering rack and power steering pump leaking.

    7) Excessive oil leak at sump gasket.

    Their quote for INVESTIGATING the gasket and gearbox, replacing the spark plugs, changing the timing belt and blackbox, 2 new rear shock absorbers, steering rack and pump and sump gasket was

    拢1948.
    Anyone know a lot about cars? I need help!!!?
    ok lets look at each pooint in detail here and see if we can help.

    3. The engine in your car is called an ECOTEC engine, it is absoloutley critical that you have the timing belt changed at least every 30,000 miles. Why you ask, the ECOTEC is called an interferance engine which means that if the timing belt breaks or wears the pistons and the valves will collide and break the worse case scenario for that is it will totally wreck your engine ( on my cavalier i changed the belt, tensioner and idlers every 25,000). SPark plugs on these engines should be a dual tipped type and need to be changed 12,000 miles or if you want improved performance and economy 6 months.

    5. Rear shock leaking- nothing can be done if thety are leaking i suggest you wipe them clean then check them again after a week if there is fluid then change them as they are a critical component for handling and safety.

    4. Back box can be bought cheap at kwik fit etc and fitted cheaply.

    6. there is a product you can buy that actually does work here, i dont normally advocate these wonder products as they normally dont work however i have seen this one used many times and it helps the seals on the pump swell up again as they shrink over time. (this one is made by wynns)

    7. excessive oil leak at sump - tricky as you need to have it steamed cleaned it could be a simple gasket or it could actually be coming from somewhere else, the engine needs claening off to locate the leak.

    2. Excessive smoking when reved- not a symptom of a head gasket ! it could actually be worse ! from cold start the engine and see what comes out of the exhaust, there are three main typess of smoke - Black = excess fuel (possible air filter blocked or injectors need cleaning) Blue- excessive oil comsumption this could be engine wear or valve stem seals. White - this is water been turned in to steam in the engine this can be a head gasket but there are kits to check this by cheking in the coolant tank to see if combusion gases are present.



    1. it is pissoble that the clutch is worn or it could be that dust has got trapped on the gearbox shaft the cluthc moves on, check the adjustment of the cluthc there should be approx 1%26quot; free play at the pedal and 1/8%26quot; at the operating end.

    A lot of garages tend to be vauge when quoting as some %26quot;mechanic%26quot; out there dont have proper diagnostic training and so they go for the %26quot;cure all scenario%26quot; , shop around and if possible find a small independant garage that has been around for years or go to a dealer (expensive i know). Hope that has helped you a bit anymore questions feel free to message me
    Anyone know a lot about cars? I need help!!!?
    Take it in to a couple of other garages for comparison.
    Check it out elsewhere. The power steering and sump gasket problems will probably need sorting anyway
    they saw you coming,please go get a 2ND opinion
    sell or trade it in don`t fix ..
    I suggest you get a second opinion. Sounds to me that they saw you coming. For the price thay quoted you can go out and buy another decent second hand car for that. Good luck
    go to a few other shops and see what they say, and also if you want to a dealership they usually charge more then a smaller shop.
    get a male friend to take it.. i know this sounds mad but if they see a women they think it is easy money were they will not try to con a male
    It all depends how you took care,maintainance wise.you should get atleast 3 quotes, do not tell how much the other guy is asking for repairs.GOOD LUCK!
    call the scrap yard and tell them to come and get it.the car has served you well and I think it is time to put it out of it's misery.take the money that you would spend on fixing the old one and make a down payment on a different car.
    dear, that sounds way out of whack, take it somewhere else. They are trying to rip you off. Head gasket you will have less power a lot less is that happening? timing chain or belt, do not worry about that, some mechanics suggest every 60,000 miles. If that is still together do not worry. it may go another 60,000 miles. even if it dose break on you, it will cost the same it will not break anything else if it goes out. Do you see oil that has fallen from your car after you move it from a parking spot? if no oil then you are not leaking oil. Dose it smoke from the engine compartment? if it is then you are leaking oil on the motor and it is burning off, it should smell really bad. you should smell it when you drive your car. I would take it to another place, take a guy with you. even if he dose not know anything about cars. Good luck sweetie. Mike
    Your car is a wreck. To repair this properly would cost many thousands of pounds eg a smokey engine can mean a new complete replacement engine.The quote you got could be viewed as cheap and could end up being 3 to 4 thousand pounds.

    I would trade it in to a car supermarket who would not check the car thoroughly and would give you a standard price for a quick deal. In this way you would get a good price for what seems to me to be a neglected, far lower than average vehicle.
    the person who you bought it off is the rip off,u could do it yourself with it needing a clutch and a head gasket for about 500 hundred,after a college course,think that price aint far off for a main garage,sorry
    How many miles has the car done? How many miles had it done when you bought it?
    i'll do it for 拢1000 all in!
    You need to get a male friend (sounds sexist) to take your car for quote as some garages charge women extra cause they think most women no nothing about the workings of a car,

    Sounds to me like you would be better off investing in a new car maybe part ex yours some places give 拢1000 min trade in.

    Good luck
    Hi



    This sounds oh so familiar. As a long standing mechanic (and I still prefer the term mechanic, to automotive engineer!) I have heard some real horror stories of Garages attempting to increase thier income by conning people, they know don't have adequate knowledge of car mechanics!





    To be honest, for a 1999 Tigra, this does sound like an exessive amount of wear and tear!!



    Hope this helps

    Here are the contact details you can use to complain, or simply get advise!



    --------------------------------------鈥?br>
    http://www.vosa.gov.uk/



    What action can I take against the garage?

    We check vehicles as a means of monitoring the MOT system and road safety standards generally.

    We cannot seek redress or compensation on your behalf - although it is open to you to take action in conjunction with your local trading standards department; take out proceedings personally or refer the matter to the police.

    We can provide you with the inspection report listing any vehicle defects and advisory items following our check of the vehicle.

    Any subsequent action which we decide to take against the testing station which tested your vehicle is at our discretion, and should have no bearing on any action you may decide to take.



    Further details and contact points

    The address of the local VOSA office is displayed in MOT testing stations or can be obtained from our general enquiry unit on 0845 600 5977 (local rate).



    --------------------------------------鈥?br>


    if you give these people a ring, they will be able to help you!
    No way are for shocks leaking.. Take it to someone else please.
    hi think your quote is well over the top the clutch if its cable operated can be adjusted, look in your service history log ,see when the timing belt and plugs were last replaced,go to somewhere like national tyres or quick fit for the shocks and exhaust, a good local garage will sort your fluid leaks and excessive engine smoking out alot cheaper than a main dealership and lastly get your fella or boyfriend to take the car in for repairs or quotes as they dont tend to take the piss outta blokes good luck hope this saves you some dosh
    trade it in as soon as poss