Hello, I'm trying to upgrade my Mongoose Disturbed MTB bike I purchased cheap for $178 at Canadian Tire.
I would like only serious, helpful suggestions for upgrading the components on this bike on a budget. I know that this is a %26quot;dept store Mongoose%26quot; and Mongoose sell really good %26quot;real%26quot; MTB bikes. The frame on it is quite heavy, but the welds look well done and strong. My bro races competitvely XC, on his expensive Kona custom, so I can ask his advise too. But he lives in another city from me.
It has pretty much the lowest components possible on it(ie taiwan parts.)
Zoom Dirtech XC front suspension(generic A28 model) It's not on their website though.
http://www.hlcorp.com.cn/hlqc/pro.asp?LarCode=HLQC%26amp;MidCode=ZOOM
Lu Jin rear shock LJ 400ax(This has an usual Eye to Eye length 6.25, which makes an upgrade almost impossible)
http://www.diytrade.com/china/4/products/571809/SHOCK_ABSORBER_LJ-400AX.html
Promax front mechanical disc DSK400 brakes. ASPE(taiwan) rear linear v-brake/levers.
http://www.promax.com.tw/english/disc_brakes.htm
http://www.apse.com.tw/E/body.php?web=11%26amp;SNo=02%26amp;FNo=101
No-name front derailleur and DNP Epoch 7 rear derailleur/13-28t slick system freewheel. I could not find any info on DNP online. Velo Shift VS-030 grip shifts. Could not find any info on these either.
Other parts are no-name Cane Creek headset, mongoose bars, stem, cranks, seatpost etc,
I have already rode it a couple times, and adjusted the shifting to where it's %26quot;as good as I could get it%26quot;, and it rides pretty good. No bobbing with this rear shock design that I could tell. I'm pretty light though 130lbs. Front fork is adequate, ran straight over curb and it didn't bottom out. I adjusted the Disc brake, so it doesn't rub, and it can lock the front pretty easy.
I'll be using it mostly on road and maybe light XC trail. Hardly any stunting/jumping.
I have already ordered online a new 2007 RockShox Dart 2 front shock cheap for $80, which should help that Zoom. I'll get a local LBS to install/tune up and check my bike out.
I wanted to know what/if any drivetrain/shifters I can replace the DNP Epoch 7 system with? Freewheels are getting rarer, but still cheap to buy. Also, I wanted some better/lighter rims%26amp;tires. If I replace the rims, would I also need to change my rear cogs/drivetrain?
It has no quick release skewers at all, so if need be I'd pay to get disc compatible hubs%26amp;QR with the new rims. I will also want better %26quot;cheap%26quot; pedals, maybe Truativ Crankset/Bottom Bracket, better front disc brake, rear v-brake etc.
I will be going to the LBS and get their advise too before I decide what to do/buy. I want to plan my %26quot;rebuild%26quot; over the winter on the cheap. Finding the right parts online would help keep costs down.(pricepoint, nashbar, jensonusa, harris cyclery) But, if just getting the LBS to upgrade slowly or all at once would be the best option. I can take pics of the bike, if it will help.
Thanks to all who reply with their advice and help.
Upgrading a Mongoose Disturbed 21spd MTB bike.?
Um, rather than make suggestions on upgrades, might I outline some problems that you might run into as you go along?
1) Going to quick release on the rear wheel will not be possible since the dropouts are too thin. Grinding down the axles to fit or adding a spacer behind the locknuts is not a good option. If you change the wheels make absolutely sure you get a Shimano compatible 7 speed freehub and cassette to replace the freewheel.
2) You might need to get a rear derailleur with a hanger attached. If you really want to do this, go to Shimano Alivio or Deore... there are hangers available but they are not common. You'll also need Shimano shifters and freewheel for proper operation. DNC is a very low end Chinese company that uses worn out Shimano tooling. Right now, I think, they are using Shimano Eagle, Lark, and Crane tooling from the 70s.
3) I am pretty sure (but not positive) that your bike has a 1%26quot; steerer and the Dart 2 is 1-1/8%26quot;. Not compatible. The Zoom Dirtech is an %26quot;original equipment manufacturers%26quot; offering and not available to the general public. These are used on very cheap bikes,especially those with head tubes under 120mm long. By the way... no Rock Shox product will be compatible with a head tube under 120mm.
4) Placing a more aggressive rear shock in will destroy the plastic pivot bushings, so if you choose to do so, pull a bushing out before they get worn and get bronze replacements at a shop that carries bearings.
I will make only one suggestion. Before you start on this upgrade %26quot;on the cheap%26quot; do some quick searches for parts prices. It is not uncommon for you to be able to get a new, better bike for the cost of such a comprehensive upgrade. If you are digging the idea of this, go for it but be well advised that you won't be saving any money.
EDIT: This is an OEM site http://www.biketaiwan.com/2008TBS/tbs/tb鈥?/a> so you won't be able to see pricing but you can do a search for the raft of garbage parts available- as well as good stuff.
Thursday 15 September 2011
Is the sketch for my project correct?
for our investigatory project, we are making something which we call %26quot;removable wheels.%26quot; we will add a frame (made of metal) where you can put the legs of tables..on top of the wheels. clamps will be used on four sides to hold the legs of the tables in place. that way, the table would move. it's like a portable push cart. the table becomes the push cart itself. you just add the wheels. (i know, not exactly a very good project, but we don't have time to change anymore) but there's one more thing. we're told to put in a %26quot;shock absorber%26quot;. this shock absorber uses the principles of hydraulics and this is where im having a problem. http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab13/kim523/ip2.jpg that's a temporary sketch i made in paint. the lines around the thing is actually a spring, in case you're wondering. the spring is welded to the metal at the bottom part, not the top part. is that correct? or is there something missing? or do you have any comments about it? it would really help me so much. if you didn't understand what i just said... please ask. i'd gladly re-explain it :)
Is the sketch for my project correct?
Edit
I cut and pasted your reference with the following result -
%26quot;We did not find results for: http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab13/鈥?/a> Try the suggestions below or type a new query above.%26quot; But
when I first posted this answer the proper self-directing link did appear. So - -
I see no %26quot;hydraulics%26quot; here. A set of coil springs will act as suitable shock absorbers for the table all by themselves. (Hydraulic %26quot;shock absorbers%26quot; on cars are really there to mostly dampen out the cyclic bounce of the springs in the suspension system. That will be unnecessary here unless you intend to put your roller table on the road.)
As is it currently described, unless the swivel pin has a retainer on top (like a locking ring) to keep it in the mounting hole, the wheel will fall out if the entire assembly is lifted. If there is a retainer , there is no need to tack weld the coil spring. If there is not a retainer, you can tack weld both ends of the spring so that it will also act as a retainer, but that will create a dis-assembly problem later. Also if you tack both ends, the wheels will be very limited in the amount of swivel.
(Unless the wheels are already ball bearing swivel casters.) I would prefer a removable retainer to snap onto a groove near the top of the pivot pin and do not weld the spring at all.
If the project is only conceptual, it looks OK as I noted above. If it is design- build, you will have to be careful with the spring design so that they are not too stiff or too weak. You will have to estimate the anticipated weight of the table and also the contents. The springs will need to be ground flat on top and bottom. The shaft mounting block will need to be counter bored or the table legs hollow to allow for unimpeeded upward movement of the shaft when the spring compresses. The bottom of the block will need a short round protrusion ( a boss) slightly less than the inside diameter of the spring to act as a lateral retainer for the spring.
Is the sketch for my project correct?
You have a problem there. A hydraulic shock absorber is made up of a piston within a cylinder which forces fluid through a small hole, not something the amateur engineer can easily rustle up. I suggest a cut down bicycle pump as the best bet. The fluid needs to be forced out to and returned from a reservoir, but there is nothing against one reservoir feeding 4 shock absorbers. Good luck.
Is the sketch for my project correct?
Edit
I cut and pasted your reference with the following result -
%26quot;We did not find results for: http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab13/鈥?/a> Try the suggestions below or type a new query above.%26quot; But
when I first posted this answer the proper self-directing link did appear. So - -
I see no %26quot;hydraulics%26quot; here. A set of coil springs will act as suitable shock absorbers for the table all by themselves. (Hydraulic %26quot;shock absorbers%26quot; on cars are really there to mostly dampen out the cyclic bounce of the springs in the suspension system. That will be unnecessary here unless you intend to put your roller table on the road.)
As is it currently described, unless the swivel pin has a retainer on top (like a locking ring) to keep it in the mounting hole, the wheel will fall out if the entire assembly is lifted. If there is a retainer , there is no need to tack weld the coil spring. If there is not a retainer, you can tack weld both ends of the spring so that it will also act as a retainer, but that will create a dis-assembly problem later. Also if you tack both ends, the wheels will be very limited in the amount of swivel.
(Unless the wheels are already ball bearing swivel casters.) I would prefer a removable retainer to snap onto a groove near the top of the pivot pin and do not weld the spring at all.
If the project is only conceptual, it looks OK as I noted above. If it is design- build, you will have to be careful with the spring design so that they are not too stiff or too weak. You will have to estimate the anticipated weight of the table and also the contents. The springs will need to be ground flat on top and bottom. The shaft mounting block will need to be counter bored or the table legs hollow to allow for unimpeeded upward movement of the shaft when the spring compresses. The bottom of the block will need a short round protrusion ( a boss) slightly less than the inside diameter of the spring to act as a lateral retainer for the spring.
Is the sketch for my project correct?
You have a problem there. A hydraulic shock absorber is made up of a piston within a cylinder which forces fluid through a small hole, not something the amateur engineer can easily rustle up. I suggest a cut down bicycle pump as the best bet. The fluid needs to be forced out to and returned from a reservoir, but there is nothing against one reservoir feeding 4 shock absorbers. Good luck.
Please, I need mechanic help with my 98 VW Passat?
So we bought a 98 Passat a few weeks ago (march 14th is the actual purchase date) When my husband brought it home from the dealership (we bought it out cash) he didnt notice anything wrong with the car. Not until he took the car to get an oil change is that he noticed that the car was leaking coolant. So we took it to VW to get an Diagnosis on what was wrong with the car. So they told us that it had a hoe that was leaking coolant. So to repair that hose it would be around $220 for the part and the labor.
Since the evaluated the whole car, on thei evaluation sheet they marked that the 1. Shock absorbers/suspension/struts, 2. Steering gear box/linkage and boots/ball joints/dust covers, 3. engine oil/fluid leak, 4. drive shaft boots/constant velocity boots/u joints/transmission linkage (if equipped) where all in the red meaning they all need immediate attention. This was all under the %26quot;under vehicle%26quot; of the inspection report they did on the car.
Ok then on the comments/estimates they added:
Upper links $1027.13
Camshaft Adj Leaking $457
R/Outer CV Boot Torn $250
Reccomend T-Belt $590
I am a lil skeptical and I find it hard to believe that a car with only 104k miles would need all of this. It is a 5-speed manual so I dont know if that makes a difference at all. Part of me just wants to say I told you so and nag him on making the quick purchase and not getting a civic or an accord (i have a lot of faith in honda) but what ever its too late now. I also want to make sure that the dealership servicing is not trying to rip us off. My husband found some receipts in the glove compartment and found that a new timing belt had been put in in the summer of 06' so we could get that off the list. But that still leaves us with a total of $1734.13 in reoairs which is almost half of what we bought the car for grrrrrr.....
My husband has a mechanic friend who can do the work for him but my husband says he would rather have vw do the work that way he has warranty if anything were to happen with those specific parts.
So what I am wondering is is all this stuff necessary or are they just trying to scam us. I would hate to think so, but you never know.
Please, I need mechanic help with my 98 VW Passat?
My first question is what sort of inspection or warranty did you get from the place that you purchased the car from. Was it a VW dealership? Was a smog and safety inspection performed on the vehicle? Is the dealership where the hose was replaced the same place where the vehicle was purchased? Inspections should always be performed before a car is purchased, but as you say, that's water under the bridge. Was the car sold as is where is? Perhaps contacting the department of consumer affairs or the Better Business Bureau might help... all they can say is no...
I have not seen the car, so I cannot verify that the vehicle needs all of this, what I can tell you is that given the milage on the vehicle it is possible that some of this work needs to be done.
I would have the vehicle inspected by another VW specialist; it does not have to be a VW dealership, but someone who works on VW's nearly all the time. If he/she is able to verify some or all of these items need service, you should be able to get this done for less money than the dealership charges.
The CV boot can be replaced by a completely rebuilt or exchange axle shaft for the same price or less, An aftermarket axle shaft can be purchased for $125 or less in most cases, plus anywhere from .5 hr to 1.0 at the most for labour to replace it. This will give you two new cv boots and rebuilt or new CV joints, rather than one boot (also there is the possiblity you might need a joint when they remove the old boot and inspect the joint). As far as the upper links on the suspension go, yeah, that's possible depending upon the type of driving and where its been driven given the miles on the vehicle. However, its something that a good mechanic or front end shop can do for you for less money. They'll also align the 4 wheels for you to reduce tyre wear after replacing the links.
I'm not no sure about the camshaft adjuster, but again, I'm not there to inspect the vehicle and say.
IF it's any comfort, at least your Passat is a very safe car and a good car to be in (heaven forbid) an accident, as your chances of survival without serious injury are excellent.
Anyway, I hope this helps, a car nut.
Please, I need mechanic help with my 98 VW Passat?
BUY A CAR WITH NO ELECTIC ANYTHING..ALL MANUAL..
simple is cheap
4 cylinder, manual transmission, single over head cam..
is the best vechile for cheap and reliable transportation
I OWN a 1998 vw jetta..love the car..hate the eletric problems..
its ok do my best to fix them i was a electronic tech in the navy
Since the evaluated the whole car, on thei evaluation sheet they marked that the 1. Shock absorbers/suspension/struts, 2. Steering gear box/linkage and boots/ball joints/dust covers, 3. engine oil/fluid leak, 4. drive shaft boots/constant velocity boots/u joints/transmission linkage (if equipped) where all in the red meaning they all need immediate attention. This was all under the %26quot;under vehicle%26quot; of the inspection report they did on the car.
Ok then on the comments/estimates they added:
Upper links $1027.13
Camshaft Adj Leaking $457
R/Outer CV Boot Torn $250
Reccomend T-Belt $590
I am a lil skeptical and I find it hard to believe that a car with only 104k miles would need all of this. It is a 5-speed manual so I dont know if that makes a difference at all. Part of me just wants to say I told you so and nag him on making the quick purchase and not getting a civic or an accord (i have a lot of faith in honda) but what ever its too late now. I also want to make sure that the dealership servicing is not trying to rip us off. My husband found some receipts in the glove compartment and found that a new timing belt had been put in in the summer of 06' so we could get that off the list. But that still leaves us with a total of $1734.13 in reoairs which is almost half of what we bought the car for grrrrrr.....
My husband has a mechanic friend who can do the work for him but my husband says he would rather have vw do the work that way he has warranty if anything were to happen with those specific parts.
So what I am wondering is is all this stuff necessary or are they just trying to scam us. I would hate to think so, but you never know.
Please, I need mechanic help with my 98 VW Passat?
My first question is what sort of inspection or warranty did you get from the place that you purchased the car from. Was it a VW dealership? Was a smog and safety inspection performed on the vehicle? Is the dealership where the hose was replaced the same place where the vehicle was purchased? Inspections should always be performed before a car is purchased, but as you say, that's water under the bridge. Was the car sold as is where is? Perhaps contacting the department of consumer affairs or the Better Business Bureau might help... all they can say is no...
I have not seen the car, so I cannot verify that the vehicle needs all of this, what I can tell you is that given the milage on the vehicle it is possible that some of this work needs to be done.
I would have the vehicle inspected by another VW specialist; it does not have to be a VW dealership, but someone who works on VW's nearly all the time. If he/she is able to verify some or all of these items need service, you should be able to get this done for less money than the dealership charges.
The CV boot can be replaced by a completely rebuilt or exchange axle shaft for the same price or less, An aftermarket axle shaft can be purchased for $125 or less in most cases, plus anywhere from .5 hr to 1.0 at the most for labour to replace it. This will give you two new cv boots and rebuilt or new CV joints, rather than one boot (also there is the possiblity you might need a joint when they remove the old boot and inspect the joint). As far as the upper links on the suspension go, yeah, that's possible depending upon the type of driving and where its been driven given the miles on the vehicle. However, its something that a good mechanic or front end shop can do for you for less money. They'll also align the 4 wheels for you to reduce tyre wear after replacing the links.
I'm not no sure about the camshaft adjuster, but again, I'm not there to inspect the vehicle and say.
IF it's any comfort, at least your Passat is a very safe car and a good car to be in (heaven forbid) an accident, as your chances of survival without serious injury are excellent.
Anyway, I hope this helps, a car nut.
Please, I need mechanic help with my 98 VW Passat?
BUY A CAR WITH NO ELECTIC ANYTHING..ALL MANUAL..
simple is cheap
4 cylinder, manual transmission, single over head cam..
is the best vechile for cheap and reliable transportation
I OWN a 1998 vw jetta..love the car..hate the eletric problems..
its ok do my best to fix them i was a electronic tech in the navy
Why does my car shake when going above 70 mph.?
My car is a 94 Nissan Quest. I recently had new shock absorbers (they were dead) installed for the front and the rear. I also put two new tires for the front and also did wheel alignment. I also did the 6,000 mile recommended engine maintenace and i also changed the tranny fluid. My mechanic suggested that i get new engine mounts. Could that be the problem? When i get to 70 mph my car shakes from the front all the way towards the rear. The shaking also seems to go in cylces. Like 2 seconds it shakes and then it lessens and then it starts shaking again.
Why does my car shake when going above 70 mph.?
Could be a number of things.
First thing to do is figure out whether it鈥檚 being caused by the driveline or by the suspension. Since you already suspect the motor mounts (yes it could be them), drive the car up to 70mph and put it in neutral. Does the vibration go away? If it does, then the problem is likely related to the driveline. It could be CV joints, motor mounts, etc. If the vibration doesn鈥檛 go away, it is likely in the suspension. It could be a broken spring, tire pressure, grabbing/wrapped brake rotor, wheel bearing, etc.
Why does my car shake when going above 70 mph.?
Loose wheel bearings. My pontiac used to do that until I had the bearings replaced on the front. The steering wheel would shake violently when I hit about 70 mph.
or you need your wheels balanced
Had your front tires, or all of them, balanced lately? If not, it might help. Somebody mentioned wheel bearings. If you have never had them re-greased, they might be dry. Or loose!
Engine mounts or bad axle joints.
Put it on a flat parking lot, drive slowly with your window down so you can hear and turn the steering wheel full Left and then back to full Right. If you hear a clicking noise then the axles are bad, if not, probably the mounts.
I did not hear anything about speed balancing the tire. I mean all four.
Need to have all 4 tires balanced. proper inflation checked.
If you can drive into the shimmy it is wheel balance, and no a wheel balance has to be asked for, it costs extra--strange they didn't ask u when you bought the tires.
Why does my car shake when going above 70 mph.?
Could be a number of things.
First thing to do is figure out whether it鈥檚 being caused by the driveline or by the suspension. Since you already suspect the motor mounts (yes it could be them), drive the car up to 70mph and put it in neutral. Does the vibration go away? If it does, then the problem is likely related to the driveline. It could be CV joints, motor mounts, etc. If the vibration doesn鈥檛 go away, it is likely in the suspension. It could be a broken spring, tire pressure, grabbing/wrapped brake rotor, wheel bearing, etc.
Why does my car shake when going above 70 mph.?
Loose wheel bearings. My pontiac used to do that until I had the bearings replaced on the front. The steering wheel would shake violently when I hit about 70 mph.
or you need your wheels balanced
Had your front tires, or all of them, balanced lately? If not, it might help. Somebody mentioned wheel bearings. If you have never had them re-greased, they might be dry. Or loose!
Engine mounts or bad axle joints.
Put it on a flat parking lot, drive slowly with your window down so you can hear and turn the steering wheel full Left and then back to full Right. If you hear a clicking noise then the axles are bad, if not, probably the mounts.
I did not hear anything about speed balancing the tire. I mean all four.
Need to have all 4 tires balanced. proper inflation checked.
If you can drive into the shimmy it is wheel balance, and no a wheel balance has to be asked for, it costs extra--strange they didn't ask u when you bought the tires.
How much is the new Nissan GT-R (Skyline) gonna cost? It's spec sheet is UNBELIEVABLE!!?
鈥?VR-series twin-turbocharged 3.8-liter V6.
鈥?480 hp @ 6,800 rpm. 430 lb-ft torque @ 3,200鈥?,200 rpm.
鈥?Dual overhead camshafts with variable intake-valve timing.
鈥?Cast aluminum cylinder block with high-endurance/low-friction plasma-sprayed bores.
鈥?IHI twin turbochargers, one per cylinder bank.
鈥?Pressurized lubrication system with thermostatically controlled cooling.
Drivetrain
鈥?ATTESA ET-S All-Wheel Drive (AWD) with independent rear-mounted transaxle integrating transmission, differential and AWD transfer case.
鈥?Rigid, lightweight carbon-composite driveshaft between engine and transaxle.
鈥?Electronic traction control plus 1.5-way mechanically locking rear differential.
鈥?Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC-R) with three driver-selectable settings: Normal (for daily driving, controls brakes and engine output), R-Mode (for ultimate performance, utilizes AWD torque distribution for additional vehicle stability) and Off (driver does not want the help of the system).
鈥?Hill Start Assist prevents rollback when starting on an incline.
DisclaimerVDC-R cannot prevent accidents due to abrupt steering, carelessness, or dangerous driving techniques. Always drive safely.
Transmission
鈥?6-speed Dual Clutch Transmission with three driver-selectable modes: Normal (for maximum smoothness and efficiency), Snow (for gentler starting and shifting on slippery surfaces), and R mode (for maximum performance with fastest shifts).
鈥?Fully automatic shifting or full sequential manual control via gearshift or steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters.
鈥?Dual clutch design changes gears in less than 0.5 second (0.2 second in R mode).
鈥?Downshift Rev Matching (DRM).
鈥?Predictive pre-shift control (in R mode) based on throttle position, vehicle speed, braking and other information.
Wheels and Tires
鈥?20 x 9.5%26quot; (front) and 20 x 10.5%26quot; (rear) super-lightweight forged-aluminum wheels with Gunmetal Gray finish.
鈥?Exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Bridgestone庐 RE070A high-capacity run-flat summer tires, 255/40R20 front and 285/35R20 rear.
鈥?Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS).
鈥?Optional exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Dunlop庐 run-flat all-season tires, 255/40R20 front and 285/35R20 rear (includes Bright Silver wheels).
Brakes
鈥?Brembo庐 4-wheel disc brakes with 4-wheel Antilock Braking System (ABS), Brake Assist, Electronic Brakeforce Distribution and Preview Braking.
鈥?Two-piece floating-rotor 15-inch front and rear discs with diamond-pattern internal ventilation.
鈥?6-piston front/4-piston rear monoblock calipers.
Steering
鈥?Rack-and-pinion steering with vehicle-speed-sensitive power assist.
鈥?2.6 steering-wheel turns lock-to-lock.
Suspension
鈥?4-wheel independent suspension with Bilstein庐 DampTronic system with three driver-selectable modes: Normal/Sport (for automatic electronic control of damping), Comfort (for maximum ride comfort), and R mode (engages maximum damping rate for high-performance cornering).
鈥?Electronically controlled variable-rate shock absorbers. High-accuracy progressive-rate coil springs.
鈥?Front double-wishbone/rear multi-link configuration with aluminum members and rigid aluminum subframes.
鈥?Hollow front and rear stabilizer bars.
Body/Chassis
鈥?Exclusive Premium Midship platform with jig-welded hybrid unibody.
鈥?Aluminum hood, trunk and door skins. Die-cast aluminum door structures.
鈥?Carbon-reinforced front crossmember/radiator support.
How much is the new Nissan GT-R (Skyline) gonna cost? It's spec sheet is UNBELIEVABLE!!?
Not sure of it yet but iam sure it will deff grow on me,i said the same thing about the R33 when it came out and now have one.
http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/video.php?i鈥?/a>
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/鈥?/a>
I think the price is right i was told around 70k
And yes the g35 is the Skyline also.
Sarah
Good luck on your R34 great cars.,trying to get the wife to like them as we have had the r32 and the r33 but she wants an evo next.
How much is the new Nissan GT-R (Skyline) gonna cost? It's spec sheet is UNBELIEVABLE!!?
The base model is going to start around $68k. It will go up as you go into the v-spec model.
Alot of freakin money. In one more year I will finally be able to own the 1999 skyline (my dreamcar) I am getting it from a collector for 110,000.00 He supped it up with twin NO2 tanks, a racing carbeurator, A flippin awesome sound system with dual bass canons. If you want the new one get it totally worth it.
The funny thing is it is already over here in the US, but nobody knows what it is. Its the Infinity G35 coupe, but In Japan it is sold as the a Nissan. Now the engine will be different than the G35. It goes 350z, G35 coupe, and then the 2009 Nissan.
The 2009 Nissan combines the both of the 350z and G35, and use the same platform.
Nissan is Infiniti
And by no means will it blow anyone away going 0-60mph. Because of the V6 and turbo lag, but that's about it. other than that its fast.
c2953lm, you're gravely uninformed. The rebadged Japanese Nissan Skyline aka G35 in the USA is a travesty to the Skyline name and heritage. Combining the G35 and 350z?? How about they all 3 have the same platform? The engine has nothing in common. The Z and G have the VQ, the GT-R has a completely redesigned VR engine. Also, turbo lag is almost non-existent, as it peaks torque at little over 1000 rpms and maintains a smooth power curve throughout the powerband. To put it in simple terms, it has more torque sooner than a naturally aspired Corvette.
I recommend that you read up some technical information, specs and especially driver reviews before you spew such uninformed opinion.
Fish Bone. c2953lm is right on this one, you shouldn't be ripping on people, when you question them for saying the right thing, but you think its wrong.(example- The car platform) You said the same thing yet you said he was wrong.
Any ways the specifications listed on the web site are as stated correctly the Japanese specs, not the US specs. And according to my local Nissan dealer the Japanese and American Versions are different(engine specs). But thats it. other than that Its still a sick car.
Nice to know someone else has a Porsche 911 twin turbo c2953lm.
The GTR is on the PM platform, not on the same platform as the Z and G35, rather an improved version of their FM
c2953lm, not trying to be rude, but where exactly have you seen that the U.S. version is not getting turbos and what our power specs will be? I try to keep up to date, and have not yet read that sad news anywhere.
that really sucks about the emissions, i had read that the 6speed manual was the only thing having problems passing emissions...my question now is, why has it been all over the west coast roads if it isn't emissions compliant? it seems odd that California would allow that thing to drive around their roads if it wasn't emissions legal
c2953lm, yeah i kinda thought about that after i asked that question...makes since why it wouldn't have to abide by our rules yet...thanks
im more of a porsche person but ive been in japan for a few years and iv drivin it its great every where but if i were to guess the price it would be abou 72K and upwards idrove the V-spec2 nur
High $60k.loreal hair color ittwit
鈥?480 hp @ 6,800 rpm. 430 lb-ft torque @ 3,200鈥?,200 rpm.
鈥?Dual overhead camshafts with variable intake-valve timing.
鈥?Cast aluminum cylinder block with high-endurance/low-friction plasma-sprayed bores.
鈥?IHI twin turbochargers, one per cylinder bank.
鈥?Pressurized lubrication system with thermostatically controlled cooling.
Drivetrain
鈥?ATTESA ET-S All-Wheel Drive (AWD) with independent rear-mounted transaxle integrating transmission, differential and AWD transfer case.
鈥?Rigid, lightweight carbon-composite driveshaft between engine and transaxle.
鈥?Electronic traction control plus 1.5-way mechanically locking rear differential.
鈥?Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC-R) with three driver-selectable settings: Normal (for daily driving, controls brakes and engine output), R-Mode (for ultimate performance, utilizes AWD torque distribution for additional vehicle stability) and Off (driver does not want the help of the system).
鈥?Hill Start Assist prevents rollback when starting on an incline.
DisclaimerVDC-R cannot prevent accidents due to abrupt steering, carelessness, or dangerous driving techniques. Always drive safely.
Transmission
鈥?6-speed Dual Clutch Transmission with three driver-selectable modes: Normal (for maximum smoothness and efficiency), Snow (for gentler starting and shifting on slippery surfaces), and R mode (for maximum performance with fastest shifts).
鈥?Fully automatic shifting or full sequential manual control via gearshift or steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters.
鈥?Dual clutch design changes gears in less than 0.5 second (0.2 second in R mode).
鈥?Downshift Rev Matching (DRM).
鈥?Predictive pre-shift control (in R mode) based on throttle position, vehicle speed, braking and other information.
Wheels and Tires
鈥?20 x 9.5%26quot; (front) and 20 x 10.5%26quot; (rear) super-lightweight forged-aluminum wheels with Gunmetal Gray finish.
鈥?Exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Bridgestone庐 RE070A high-capacity run-flat summer tires, 255/40R20 front and 285/35R20 rear.
鈥?Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS).
鈥?Optional exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Dunlop庐 run-flat all-season tires, 255/40R20 front and 285/35R20 rear (includes Bright Silver wheels).
Brakes
鈥?Brembo庐 4-wheel disc brakes with 4-wheel Antilock Braking System (ABS), Brake Assist, Electronic Brakeforce Distribution and Preview Braking.
鈥?Two-piece floating-rotor 15-inch front and rear discs with diamond-pattern internal ventilation.
鈥?6-piston front/4-piston rear monoblock calipers.
Steering
鈥?Rack-and-pinion steering with vehicle-speed-sensitive power assist.
鈥?2.6 steering-wheel turns lock-to-lock.
Suspension
鈥?4-wheel independent suspension with Bilstein庐 DampTronic system with three driver-selectable modes: Normal/Sport (for automatic electronic control of damping), Comfort (for maximum ride comfort), and R mode (engages maximum damping rate for high-performance cornering).
鈥?Electronically controlled variable-rate shock absorbers. High-accuracy progressive-rate coil springs.
鈥?Front double-wishbone/rear multi-link configuration with aluminum members and rigid aluminum subframes.
鈥?Hollow front and rear stabilizer bars.
Body/Chassis
鈥?Exclusive Premium Midship platform with jig-welded hybrid unibody.
鈥?Aluminum hood, trunk and door skins. Die-cast aluminum door structures.
鈥?Carbon-reinforced front crossmember/radiator support.
How much is the new Nissan GT-R (Skyline) gonna cost? It's spec sheet is UNBELIEVABLE!!?
Not sure of it yet but iam sure it will deff grow on me,i said the same thing about the R33 when it came out and now have one.
http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/video.php?i鈥?/a>
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/鈥?/a>
I think the price is right i was told around 70k
And yes the g35 is the Skyline also.
Sarah
Good luck on your R34 great cars.,trying to get the wife to like them as we have had the r32 and the r33 but she wants an evo next.
How much is the new Nissan GT-R (Skyline) gonna cost? It's spec sheet is UNBELIEVABLE!!?
The base model is going to start around $68k. It will go up as you go into the v-spec model.
Alot of freakin money. In one more year I will finally be able to own the 1999 skyline (my dreamcar) I am getting it from a collector for 110,000.00 He supped it up with twin NO2 tanks, a racing carbeurator, A flippin awesome sound system with dual bass canons. If you want the new one get it totally worth it.
The funny thing is it is already over here in the US, but nobody knows what it is. Its the Infinity G35 coupe, but In Japan it is sold as the a Nissan. Now the engine will be different than the G35. It goes 350z, G35 coupe, and then the 2009 Nissan.
The 2009 Nissan combines the both of the 350z and G35, and use the same platform.
Nissan is Infiniti
And by no means will it blow anyone away going 0-60mph. Because of the V6 and turbo lag, but that's about it. other than that its fast.
c2953lm, you're gravely uninformed. The rebadged Japanese Nissan Skyline aka G35 in the USA is a travesty to the Skyline name and heritage. Combining the G35 and 350z?? How about they all 3 have the same platform? The engine has nothing in common. The Z and G have the VQ, the GT-R has a completely redesigned VR engine. Also, turbo lag is almost non-existent, as it peaks torque at little over 1000 rpms and maintains a smooth power curve throughout the powerband. To put it in simple terms, it has more torque sooner than a naturally aspired Corvette.
I recommend that you read up some technical information, specs and especially driver reviews before you spew such uninformed opinion.
Fish Bone. c2953lm is right on this one, you shouldn't be ripping on people, when you question them for saying the right thing, but you think its wrong.(example- The car platform) You said the same thing yet you said he was wrong.
Any ways the specifications listed on the web site are as stated correctly the Japanese specs, not the US specs. And according to my local Nissan dealer the Japanese and American Versions are different(engine specs). But thats it. other than that Its still a sick car.
Nice to know someone else has a Porsche 911 twin turbo c2953lm.
The GTR is on the PM platform, not on the same platform as the Z and G35, rather an improved version of their FM
c2953lm, not trying to be rude, but where exactly have you seen that the U.S. version is not getting turbos and what our power specs will be? I try to keep up to date, and have not yet read that sad news anywhere.
that really sucks about the emissions, i had read that the 6speed manual was the only thing having problems passing emissions...my question now is, why has it been all over the west coast roads if it isn't emissions compliant? it seems odd that California would allow that thing to drive around their roads if it wasn't emissions legal
c2953lm, yeah i kinda thought about that after i asked that question...makes since why it wouldn't have to abide by our rules yet...thanks
im more of a porsche person but ive been in japan for a few years and iv drivin it its great every where but if i were to guess the price it would be abou 72K and upwards idrove the V-spec2 nur
High $60k.
I need some mechanical advice on my 98 VW Passat?
So we bought a 98 Passat a few weeks ago (march 14th is the actual purchase date) When my husband brought it home from the dealership (we bought it out cash) he didnt notice anything wrong with the car. Not until he took the car to get an oil change is that he noticed that the car was leaking coolant. So we took it to VW to get an Diagnosis on what was wrong with the car. So they told us that it had a hoe that was leaking coolant. So to repair that hose it would be around $220 for the part and the labor.
Since the evaluated the whole car, on thei evaluation sheet they marked that the 1. Shock absorbers/suspension/struts, 2. Steering gear box/linkage and boots/ball joints/dust covers, 3. engine oil/fluid leak, 4. drive shaft boots/constant velocity boots/u joints/transmission linkage (if equipped) where all in the red meaning they all need immediate attention. This was all under the %26quot;under vehicle%26quot; of the inspection report they did on the car.
Ok then on the comments/estimates they added:
Upper links $1027.13
Camshaft Adj Leaking $457
R/Outer CV Boot Torn $250
Reccomend T-Belt $590
I am a lil skeptical and I find it hard to believe that a car with only 104k miles would need all of this. It is a 5-speed manual so I dont know if that makes a difference at all. Part of me just wants to say I told you so and nag him on making the quick purchase and not getting a civic or an accord (i have a lot of faith in honda) but what ever its too late now. I also want to make sure that the dealership servicing is not trying to rip us off. My husband found some receipts in the glove compartment and found that a new timing belt had been put in in the summer of 06' so we could get that off the list. But that still leaves us with a total of $1734.13 in reoairs which is almost half of what we bought the car for grrrrrr.....
My husband has a mechanic friend who can do the work for him but my husband says he would rather have vw do the work that way he has warranty if anything were to happen with those specific parts.
So what I am wondering is is all this stuff necessary or are they just trying to scam us. I would hate to think so, but you never know.
I need some mechanical advice on my 98 VW Passat?
LOL...listen..mechanics are out to rip u off !..ALWAYS get to or 3 opinions ..like u would from a doctor..
sounds to me this SHOP is riping u off..
do a search online for your %26quot;State inspection checkoff list%26quot;..for YOUR STATE..
and take it to another mechanic.
once u find a cheap and honest mechanic..go to him for all your troubles..even if u have to drive a hour away..extra $20 in gas is better then paying extra 200-400 in repairs..right?
I need some mechanical advice on my 98 VW Passat?
Is this a TURBO engine???? You must use only genuine VW COOLANT in these cars. You have no way of controlling what the previous owner did or didn't do. Only Mobil One 0W_40 oil or ELF oil should ever be used in this car, either. The 100,000 mile maintenance can be prohibitive, I agree. The dealership should stand behind this car. Hopefully, they are a VW delaer. If not, you may have to threaten with litigation. Once you get over this hurdle, your car should last another 100,000 miles before it needs any major work. Have your engine de-sludged before you install the Mobil One or ELF oil. You will do your engine the biggest favor, and you will reap the rewards of better power and MPG's, plus a cleaner engine that has lowest internal friction. Interestingly enough, VW engines have piston squirters built into them. Each time the piston goes down, a little sprayer focuses oil at the wrist pin. In theory, this engine can last for almost ever if you use the proper VW spec 502/505 oil. (Mobil One or ELF). You did the right thing by buying this car. It is safer and actually cheaper in the long run than the Honda you were thinking about. If the timing belt goes on a Honda before it gets changed, you are looking at a thousnd dollar plus repair, as the valves will bend. The VW was engineered for Autobahn speeds. 140 MPH +. Heed my advice. You cannot go wrong. Also, read you manual and change your brake fluid every 2-3 years. There is a new synthetic brake fluid avilable for this guy that protects a little better. Either way, use only the German fluid, or you will have more expenses coming with the brake system. See??
well since you say your husband wants to get it repaired by vw then thats his thing even though some places over the warranty if it dont work just have to ask the mechanic and if he does it himself it should be easy to do. and if not then tell him to let his friend do it if he has a diploma or a degree in mechanics
let me start by saying ive been there i always have my used cars checked by my mechanic but im not trying to lecture you the dealer always cost much more than a regular garage i do know that vw parts are expensive but don't panic dealers are in a hard way right now and they need all the money they can get so they a more than likely nit picking you're car because they are hungry have you're husbands friend evaluate the car and if something is serious have him take care of it you can i hope trust him to lead you in the right direction
Since the evaluated the whole car, on thei evaluation sheet they marked that the 1. Shock absorbers/suspension/struts, 2. Steering gear box/linkage and boots/ball joints/dust covers, 3. engine oil/fluid leak, 4. drive shaft boots/constant velocity boots/u joints/transmission linkage (if equipped) where all in the red meaning they all need immediate attention. This was all under the %26quot;under vehicle%26quot; of the inspection report they did on the car.
Ok then on the comments/estimates they added:
Upper links $1027.13
Camshaft Adj Leaking $457
R/Outer CV Boot Torn $250
Reccomend T-Belt $590
I am a lil skeptical and I find it hard to believe that a car with only 104k miles would need all of this. It is a 5-speed manual so I dont know if that makes a difference at all. Part of me just wants to say I told you so and nag him on making the quick purchase and not getting a civic or an accord (i have a lot of faith in honda) but what ever its too late now. I also want to make sure that the dealership servicing is not trying to rip us off. My husband found some receipts in the glove compartment and found that a new timing belt had been put in in the summer of 06' so we could get that off the list. But that still leaves us with a total of $1734.13 in reoairs which is almost half of what we bought the car for grrrrrr.....
My husband has a mechanic friend who can do the work for him but my husband says he would rather have vw do the work that way he has warranty if anything were to happen with those specific parts.
So what I am wondering is is all this stuff necessary or are they just trying to scam us. I would hate to think so, but you never know.
I need some mechanical advice on my 98 VW Passat?
LOL...listen..mechanics are out to rip u off !..ALWAYS get to or 3 opinions ..like u would from a doctor..
sounds to me this SHOP is riping u off..
do a search online for your %26quot;State inspection checkoff list%26quot;..for YOUR STATE..
and take it to another mechanic.
once u find a cheap and honest mechanic..go to him for all your troubles..even if u have to drive a hour away..extra $20 in gas is better then paying extra 200-400 in repairs..right?
I need some mechanical advice on my 98 VW Passat?
Is this a TURBO engine???? You must use only genuine VW COOLANT in these cars. You have no way of controlling what the previous owner did or didn't do. Only Mobil One 0W_40 oil or ELF oil should ever be used in this car, either. The 100,000 mile maintenance can be prohibitive, I agree. The dealership should stand behind this car. Hopefully, they are a VW delaer. If not, you may have to threaten with litigation. Once you get over this hurdle, your car should last another 100,000 miles before it needs any major work. Have your engine de-sludged before you install the Mobil One or ELF oil. You will do your engine the biggest favor, and you will reap the rewards of better power and MPG's, plus a cleaner engine that has lowest internal friction. Interestingly enough, VW engines have piston squirters built into them. Each time the piston goes down, a little sprayer focuses oil at the wrist pin. In theory, this engine can last for almost ever if you use the proper VW spec 502/505 oil. (Mobil One or ELF). You did the right thing by buying this car. It is safer and actually cheaper in the long run than the Honda you were thinking about. If the timing belt goes on a Honda before it gets changed, you are looking at a thousnd dollar plus repair, as the valves will bend. The VW was engineered for Autobahn speeds. 140 MPH +. Heed my advice. You cannot go wrong. Also, read you manual and change your brake fluid every 2-3 years. There is a new synthetic brake fluid avilable for this guy that protects a little better. Either way, use only the German fluid, or you will have more expenses coming with the brake system. See??
well since you say your husband wants to get it repaired by vw then thats his thing even though some places over the warranty if it dont work just have to ask the mechanic and if he does it himself it should be easy to do. and if not then tell him to let his friend do it if he has a diploma or a degree in mechanics
let me start by saying ive been there i always have my used cars checked by my mechanic but im not trying to lecture you the dealer always cost much more than a regular garage i do know that vw parts are expensive but don't panic dealers are in a hard way right now and they need all the money they can get so they a more than likely nit picking you're car because they are hungry have you're husbands friend evaluate the car and if something is serious have him take care of it you can i hope trust him to lead you in the right direction
Cycling for life and My story of life.?
Hi All,
During my childwood i puchased Hercules MTB i used this very roughly from 8th std to 12th std.I was totally fit and enjoyed my riding each day , this was the basic model without any gears but i used to ride for 20kms every day. (1993 to 1998). My cycle was my life at this time.
Later in 2002 i entered the software profession i was fit healthy and muscular, but down the time this stamina got declining,
My friends and readers(Other Software professionals) will know why it happened to me?
Reason : Sloggin and working on computer for a long time. Life style totally changed i used my car and 2 wheeler for most of the transportation.
I was really embarrassed and depressed reg my health and my situation, but I never found a way to overcome this, but I always used to repent on this.
Then on one day i thought i will commute to office by using cycle.
I took Hero Hawk (With out gears) for communting from office to home, i rode this for 1 month, but i used to put lot of efforts on cycling.
Later i developed back pain because this cycle was not a perfect design for my body鈥檚 attributes(iam 100 Kilos and 5鈥?%26quot;) The seat of this bicycle is really pathetic
I donated this bicycle(Hero Hawk)
My health started declining onceagain daily i used to think weather i will survive or not for the another 1 year.
I started doing Yoga and Brisk walking now iam fit and energetic now i love myself and have pride about myself .
After 2 months i wanted to go for a bicycle once again but but this time i did a lots of research on bikes and came to know that i have to use a good bike(BICYCLE) where in which the efforts for pedalling should be very very less this and this are all my findings.
Hero:
1) Octane DTB1 (5500rs)
2) Octane DTB2 (5500 rs)
3) Octane Nv (5500rs)
4) Octane 26t (7500 rs with speed brakes)
all the above models have 21 gears.
Hercules Models
1) Hecules Turbodrive
2) Hercules wow(18 gear ) - 5500 rs
3) Hercules Wow -(21 gears with speed brake) - 7500rs
4) Hercules dtb4 -(21 gears but a heavy vehicle)-5500rs
5) Hercules DTB5-(21 gears aluminum bike ) - 6500 rs
6) Hercules Fusion (6 gears) - 3500rs
7) Hercules fusion whith shock absorbers(6 gears) - 4000rs.
Trek Models
1) Trek 3700 ( 17000 rs )
2) Trek 4300(22000 rs +)
Merrida
1) model 1
2) Model 2
the prices of merrida is same as trek models.
FireFox
1) Basic Model with 6 gears starts from 6000 rs+
For me i dont wanted to invest a large amount for bicycle, because if some theft happens i would repent a lot then i dont wanted to go for an international or imported brand because of maintainence issues.
so i choosed 2 indian Brands
1) Hero and 2) Hercules.
With the review comments that what i have read in the internet directly i rejected hero brand.
My inclination started growing with hercules. and i decided to go for any one of the below bikes
1) Hercules Wow (18 Gear)
2) Hercules dtb 5(21 gear)
While commuting to office with my Petrol Vehicle i always scanned the roads for this higer end bicycles i found a couple of riders with Hercules Wow. They gave me the best feed back reg this Bikes.
Then i made my mind to buy hercules WoW (18 Gear)- 5500RS.
To make this decesion i have done mining on the different category of cycles.
The feedback from various people who were using Hercules Wow is amazing. i will be purchasing this bicycle at the earliest and i will presume my cycling journey of my life once again to keep myself fit , energetic, active and to build stamina.
I have done lots and lots of research on bicycles.
Below are some of the links you can look in to (Because i have used this links for my initial research)
http://groups.google.co.in/group/Bangalore-bikers
http://www.bikeszone.com/
http://www.bumsonthesaddle.com/mountainBikes
If you still require any other info or want to make some decesion you can mail me back or call me up.
This is my number 9916487474
All the best for other who are venturing for getting new bicycles.
Purchase Price (INR): 5500
Cycling for life and My story of life.?
worlds longest non-question
wle.
Cycling for life and My story of life.?
Are you asking a question or trying to sell a bike?
During my childwood i puchased Hercules MTB i used this very roughly from 8th std to 12th std.I was totally fit and enjoyed my riding each day , this was the basic model without any gears but i used to ride for 20kms every day. (1993 to 1998). My cycle was my life at this time.
Later in 2002 i entered the software profession i was fit healthy and muscular, but down the time this stamina got declining,
My friends and readers(Other Software professionals) will know why it happened to me?
Reason : Sloggin and working on computer for a long time. Life style totally changed i used my car and 2 wheeler for most of the transportation.
I was really embarrassed and depressed reg my health and my situation, but I never found a way to overcome this, but I always used to repent on this.
Then on one day i thought i will commute to office by using cycle.
I took Hero Hawk (With out gears) for communting from office to home, i rode this for 1 month, but i used to put lot of efforts on cycling.
Later i developed back pain because this cycle was not a perfect design for my body鈥檚 attributes(iam 100 Kilos and 5鈥?%26quot;) The seat of this bicycle is really pathetic
I donated this bicycle(Hero Hawk)
My health started declining onceagain daily i used to think weather i will survive or not for the another 1 year.
I started doing Yoga and Brisk walking now iam fit and energetic now i love myself and have pride about myself .
After 2 months i wanted to go for a bicycle once again but but this time i did a lots of research on bikes and came to know that i have to use a good bike(BICYCLE) where in which the efforts for pedalling should be very very less this and this are all my findings.
Hero:
1) Octane DTB1 (5500rs)
2) Octane DTB2 (5500 rs)
3) Octane Nv (5500rs)
4) Octane 26t (7500 rs with speed brakes)
all the above models have 21 gears.
Hercules Models
1) Hecules Turbodrive
2) Hercules wow(18 gear ) - 5500 rs
3) Hercules Wow -(21 gears with speed brake) - 7500rs
4) Hercules dtb4 -(21 gears but a heavy vehicle)-5500rs
5) Hercules DTB5-(21 gears aluminum bike ) - 6500 rs
6) Hercules Fusion (6 gears) - 3500rs
7) Hercules fusion whith shock absorbers(6 gears) - 4000rs.
Trek Models
1) Trek 3700 ( 17000 rs )
2) Trek 4300(22000 rs +)
Merrida
1) model 1
2) Model 2
the prices of merrida is same as trek models.
FireFox
1) Basic Model with 6 gears starts from 6000 rs+
For me i dont wanted to invest a large amount for bicycle, because if some theft happens i would repent a lot then i dont wanted to go for an international or imported brand because of maintainence issues.
so i choosed 2 indian Brands
1) Hero and 2) Hercules.
With the review comments that what i have read in the internet directly i rejected hero brand.
My inclination started growing with hercules. and i decided to go for any one of the below bikes
1) Hercules Wow (18 Gear)
2) Hercules dtb 5(21 gear)
While commuting to office with my Petrol Vehicle i always scanned the roads for this higer end bicycles i found a couple of riders with Hercules Wow. They gave me the best feed back reg this Bikes.
Then i made my mind to buy hercules WoW (18 Gear)- 5500RS.
To make this decesion i have done mining on the different category of cycles.
The feedback from various people who were using Hercules Wow is amazing. i will be purchasing this bicycle at the earliest and i will presume my cycling journey of my life once again to keep myself fit , energetic, active and to build stamina.
I have done lots and lots of research on bicycles.
Below are some of the links you can look in to (Because i have used this links for my initial research)
http://groups.google.co.in/group/Bangalore-bikers
http://www.bikeszone.com/
http://www.bumsonthesaddle.com/mountainBikes
If you still require any other info or want to make some decesion you can mail me back or call me up.
This is my number 9916487474
All the best for other who are venturing for getting new bicycles.
Purchase Price (INR): 5500
Cycling for life and My story of life.?
worlds longest non-question
wle.
Cycling for life and My story of life.?
Are you asking a question or trying to sell a bike?
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